We are Marseilling
AS FRANCE’S SECOND CITY PREPARES TO PLAY ITS PART IN THE 2024 OLYMPICS, REBECCA BLACK GOES BEHIND THE SCENES
AT any time of the year, Marseille lives up to its reputation as one of the sunniest cities in Europe. The rays warm my face as I explore the winding streets of tall houses, wooden doors and pastel painted shutters of the old town.
There’s a smell of soap in the air from the bars of the traditional Savon de Marseille on sale in shops, keeping alive a long tradition. And bakeries, restaurants and bars offer a feast of favourites, from bouillabaisse to navettes (a type of biscuit).
It would be hard to find a more perfect example of what makes France so appealing to foreigners, as scores of visitors will find out this summer when the country’s second city hosts several Olympic Games events.
These will include the sailing and – appropriately for the birth place of both Eric Cantona and Zinedine Zidane – much of the football competition.
Standing at the picture-perfect Marseille Marina, against a backdrop of a sparkling blue Mediterranean, I ask Jean Bernard Constant, President of the Pole France Voile Marseille, how his city pipped other potential venues to the post.
He smiles and gestures to our surroundings.
It is just over three hours on the TGV from Paris, and stepping off the train it feels like another world as I inhale the fresh sea air of the French Riviera.
Arriving at Hotel nhow Marseille in the dark the night before, I suspected a spectacular view awaited me in the daylight.
I was not disappointed in the morning, when I drew back the curtains and gazed across the sea spot
ting several islands, including Chateau d’if with the prison immortalised in the Count of Monte Cristo.
The history of Marseille is just as fascinating as the works of fiction it has inspired, with settlement on the site dating back to around 600BC and the arrival of the Greeks.
It blossomed in medieval times as a key port for those making a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The historic Notre-dame de la Garde’s basilica overlooking the city is a treat. Around the corner is the Santons of Provence, a shop full of little clay models of religious figures that make up the Christian nativity scene, said to originate in the region. The street art is also spectacular.
VENUES FIT FOR OLYMPIANS
The Marseille Marina is set to host many of the water sports, including sailing, while wind surfing will depart from a nearby beach.
Work is nearing completion on a state-of-the-art nautical stadium ahead of the events this summer that are expected to attract 700 boats and thousands of spectators.
It is easy to imagine passing a very pleasant day in the sun on the beach while also enjoying the competition on the water.
Further inland, the Stade Velodrome – with a capacity for 65,000 people – is preparing for another significant chapter in its history when it hosts the Olympic football.
Built in 1937, it is home to Olympique de Marseille, and has hosted the 1938 and 1998 Football World Cups, 1984 and 2016 Euro Football Championships, and 2007 Rugby World Cup.
Inside, there is a section dedicated to French football, with character-filled photographs of managers and players from years gone by.
THE LOCAL CUISINE
A sweet smell guides me towards the intriguing Les Navettes des Accoules bakery.
The unique orange blossom scented navettes biscuits date back to 1781 and are shaped like boats.
While a number of origin stories are given, the predominant one seems to be that they were designed to symbolise the boat that brought the Saintes-maries (the three Marys) to the coast of Provence.
From street food, to something somewhat beyond, I find what looks like a simple food truck a short distance from the Stade Velodrome. But instead of burgers, it serves gourmet food prepared with local, seasonal produce fresh from the market.
The Michel par AM truck by Chef Alexandre Mazzia was born out of the Covid-19 lockdown and remains as popular, with chefs busily toiling in the small kitchen inside, carefully creating dishes as beautifully put together as they are mouth-watering.
In the chef’s nearby three Michelin-starred restaurant, AM par Alexandre Mazzia, I’m taken on a food journey like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. An army of waiting staff lay out art across the table in a series of courses, with many components and combinations designed to provoke the senses.
During my visit, the dishes include smoked eel and dark chocolate – a combination particularly close to the chef’s heart, harking back to fishing trips as a child which often finished with some chocolate as a treat.
While Paris may receive the bulk of the attention when the Olympic Games open this summer, Marseille is set to deliver its own unforgettable experience with the city itself as memorable as the world-class sport it is hosting.