Hard work creates a sweet success story
Whenmafu Diagne arrived in Scotland he couldn’t speak a word of English, now he’s head baker at a top patisserie
Young dad Mafu Diagne – whose English vocabulary didn’t even extend to ‘hello’ – had never turned his hand to cooking, and certainly not baking, before he arrived in Scotland five years ago from West Africa.
Yet, just like his cousin Modou, Mafu’s good, old-fashioned work ethic – and his intrinsic sense for sniffing out the finest of produce from Scotland’s natural larder and turning it into culinary artistry – caught the eye and imagination of one of the country’s most prolific and celebrated chefs.
Committed to protecting the proud provenance of his Six by Nico brand and that of his 17 restaurants that have opened in 10 vibrant cities across the UK,
Mafu’s creativity and natural flair piqued the interest of chef Nico Simeone.
As a result, like Modou, former kitchen porter Mafu has been catapulted from the lowest ranks of back-of-house hierarchy, to head baker at Valaria – a high-end Parisienne-inspired patisserie, bakery and all-day eatery in Glasgow’s fashionable West End.
It’s now 27-year-old Mafu’s hope to one day return to his native Senegal, where he has an 18-month-old daughter, to channel his passion and culinary skills into a restaurant and talented kitchen team of his own.
Nico Simeone hit the headlines in 2020 when he gifted his original Glasgow restaurant, 111 by Nico, to its head chef Modou Diagne, formerly a kitchen porter.
In 2019, Modou – who arrived in Scotland with just £200 in his pocket – convinced his cousin Mafu to follow in his footsteps. When he arrived, a job as a kitchen porter at one of Simeone’s venues, The Hebridean, was waiting for him.
Soon afterwards, Modou took his cousin under his wing at 111 by Modou, where he first developed a passion for cookery.
But, as Simeone prepared last month to re-open refurbished Valaria on Glasgow’s trendy Byres Road, he knew the time was right for Mafu to step up to a senior role in the kitchen as reward for his commitment and culinary prowess.
Although he concedes they’re like ships that pass in the night, Mafu – who lives with his cousin a stone’s throw from 111 by Modou in Kelvindale – said: “Modou’s like a brother to me. We don’t see much of each other anymore, as I arrive at work around 3am, and he’s not back until after midnight.
“We can go a week without seeing each other, despite living in the same house.
“He convinced me to come to Scotland, and I’m so glad he did. It’s been a journey.
“He’s taught me so much – from his work ethic and his creativity to specific techniques. He’s always giving me advice and pushing me to improve.”
When Mafu arrived in Scotland, he didn’t speak a word of English.
“I couldn’t even say ‘hello,’” he recalls. “Learning English from Scots in kitchens probably isn’t the easiest way to pick it up, but I’m making progress.
“Right from when I arrived, Modou spoke only English to me. That was hard at first, but it’s definitely helped me learn.”
During the last year, Mafu has developed a passion for pastries, fuelled by Youtube videos of acclaimed French pastry chef Cedric Grolet.
“I didn’t know anything about baking when I came to Scotland, but I’ve fallen in love with it,” he enthused.
“The more you learn, the better you become and the more enjoyable it becomes. Nico told me to watch Cedric for inspiration, and it’s become an obsession. I can spend hours watching him on Youtube, copying everything
he does. The end result can be so beautiful, it’s always worth the effort.
“It’s hard work, especially starting at 3am, as everything’s freshly made each day, but I love it.
“The weather in Scotland means there are no distractions. I’m able to focus.
“I’ve thrown everything into my career and it’s amazing to see how far I’ve come in such a short space of time.
“It also means I’ve been able to send more money back to my daughter. She’s really why I’m doing all of this.
“One day, I hope to take what I’ve learned and go back to Senegal and open a restaurant there.”
Nico says Mafu’s ability to quickly acquire new skills has been startling. I can’t believe how quickly he picks things up. He’s like a sponge, absorbing everything from everyone around him,” said Nico.
“Within months, he was better than some people who’d been doing it for years. Like Modou, he has incredible focus to make the best product possible.
“As we expand to new concepts like Valaria, it’s important we have people we trust who are already in the eco-system, leading the way. That’s key to our success.
“We could see the talent was there from very early on.
“After a short time, it was a nobrainer that he was ready to be head baker.
“I’m really proud of how he’s stepped into the role and we’re incredibly excited to see where he can take Valaria.”
Since launching the first Six by Nico in Glasgow’s fashionable Finnieston in 2017 with the iconic ‘chippie’ menu, Scottish restaurateur Nico Simeone has taken the UK’S food scene by storm.
Now, with his wildly popular restaurant group operating 17 venues in cities including Edinburgh, Manchester, and London, as well as a first overseas restaurant in Dublin, the renowned chef recently embarked on a new challenge that is taking him back to his roots.
In February, the Finnieston venue that was home to the first Six by Nico reopened as Sole Club – Nico Simeone’s new, elevated chippie and restaurant, following significant investment and a major refurbishment.
On the face of it, it’s a traditional, takeaway chippie.
But, behind a seemingly innocuous fridge door is another example of Simeone’s signature innovation and originality – an intimate, exclusive speakeasystyle fish restaurant with only 20 covers.
“Finnieston is special to us, as it’s where it all began for Six by Nico,” the chef explained.
“When we decided to move to a bigger venue in Merchant City, it was never a question of giving up the venue; it’s too big a part of our story. But for me, it’s always about ‘what’s next?’ How can we take the ethos, thought process, and creativity behind Six by Nico and channel it into a completely new and original concept?
“With everything we do, the first goal is how do we get the product and the experience to where we want to be. I believe in the Sole Club concept and think it can go on to follow in Six by Nico’s footsteps – but first, it’s about making Finnieston a success.”
When pondering ‘what’s next,’
Simeone’s mind repeatedly returns to humble beginnings – chip shops.
The entire Simeone family – the chef ’s grandparents, aunts, uncles, and parents – all owned chippies.
His brother, Vito, runs Gianni’s in Auchinairn, East Dunbartonshire – the chippie where Simeone first cut his teeth working after school under his mum and dad in the early 2000s.
“At communions and family parties, I just listened to my uncles and dad talking about running chippies and business. I was like a sponge,” the former Young Scottish Seafood Chef of the Year continued.
“The inherent DNA of classic fish and chips won’t change, but we also want to elevate certain parts to offer something to people who want to experience something more experiential, more experimental.
“We’ll provide more creative options elevated by some of the cheffing techniques we use at Six, and the menu in the restaurant side of the fridge will change on a daily basis, depending on what’s caught that day.”
Some of the dishes proving popular with discerning diners include monkfish Kiev, the “ultimate” fish finger butty with fennel slaw and tartare sauce, and a lobster roll with saffron and orange emulsion and shellfish butter, as well as, of course, traditional fish and chips.
The restaurant serves fewer than 400 people per week – numbers most Six by Nico venues can accommodate in a single day.
There are no ‘walk-ins’ for inhouse dining, and bookings for the venue are released on a month-bymonth basis.
A range of Stirling’s outstanding independent business owners were rewarded with trophies last Thursday at the city’s annual Business Awards.
The winners of 11 awards were revealed during a black-tie ceremony at the Albert Halls for the Stirling Business Awards 2024 organised by Go Forth Stirling BID.
Business owners and their teams were presented with awards in a variety of categories with the winners chosen by the public in a selection process which saw almost 24,000 votes cast.
Winners included Stirling Community Enterprise who scooped the Outstanding Contribution to Stirling Award for their services which support unemployed people across the region and help them find sustainable work.
Meanwhile Start Up Stirling, who have been helping local people in need for the past 30 years, were awarded Charity of the Year 2024.
Danielle Mcrorie-smith, project director of Go Forth Stirling - the city’s Business Improvement District (BID), welcomed guests to last night’s ceremony which was sponsored by the Thistles.
She said: “It was an amazing night and we are delighted with the response to the second year of our awards scheme which we launched to recognise and reward
Stirling’s independent business owners and charities.
“We hosted around 200 guests who enjoyed a wonderful evening at the Albert Halls and it was lovely to see so many business owners and employees - who work across Stirling’s diverse independent scene - come together to celebrate in style.
“We were pleased to host a successful evening which gave us the chance to highlight Stirling’s enterprising business owners and I’d like to congratulate all the winners and finalists and thank our generous sponsors.
“We will now look to build on this year’s event and come back for an even bigger and better awards night in 2025.”
Members of Stirling’s business community, social enterprises and charitable sector enjoyed entertainment from dynamic drumming troupe Percussion Theatre at the gala evening which was compered by DJS from Central FM.
Trophies were handed out in various award categories including Retailer of the Year which was won for a second time by specialist music store Joanie’s Music.
The Upper Craigs shop was a stand-out
winner gaining 65 per cent of the public votes cast for a longlist of 10 nominated retail businesses.
Stirling’s Restaurant of the Year was won by Nepalese and Indian restaurant Mint Leaf who gained 52.5 per cent of votes in their category and the city’s Pub of the Year was awarded to Scottish bar Slanj A Va who were the first choice for 51.4 per cent of voters.
The award for Stirling’s Café/coffee Shop of the Year went to Book Nook while Stirling’s Hair and Beauty Business of the Year was won by Allure Style Studio.
The team from the Stirling Smith Art Gallery & Museum were delighted to be named the city’s Visitor Attraction of the Year while Allan Park Dental Practice won Service-led Business of the Year.
Hair salon Simpson and Co took away the honour of New Business of the Year, sponsored by the Fubar nightclub, while Codebase Stirling won the Business Support Services of the Year award which was sponsored by STEP Scotland.
STEP managing director David Miller said: “At STEP, we strongly believe in supporting and empowering local businesses to thrive.
“We work closely with the BID team to ensure businesses in the city centre have the support they need.
“We were delighted to sponsor the Business Support Services category and the annual awards are a great opportunity to celebrate excellence and innovation - highlighting the remarkable achievements within our city centre.”
Dave Thompson, area manager of the Fubar, said: “As proud sponsors of the Stirling Business Awards, we are honoured to give back to the city that has generously supported us.
“This event symbolises more than just recognition - it’s a celebration of unity, providing a platform for businesses to come together, demonstrate mutual support and showcase the vibrant spirit of our community.”
Gary Turnbull is centre director at the Thistles which sponsored the Charity of the Year Award as well as backing the awards as headline sponsor.
He said: “We were delighted to sponsor the Stirling Business Awards again and, in particular, the Charity of the Year category – something close to our hearts here at the centre with our ongoing community charitable outreach programme.
“I would like to congratulate all of the shortlisted businesses and winners events like these showcase the talent in our region and make us proud to be a voice for Stirling.”
The full list of award winners is as follows:
Outstanding Contribution to Stirling – Stirling Community Enterprise.
Charity of the Year (sponsored by the Thistles) – Start Up Stirling.
Restaurant of the Year – Mint Leaf. Service-led Business of the Year – Allan Park Dental Practice.
Café/coffee Shop of the Year – Book Nook.
Retailer of the Year – Joanie’s Music. Visitor Attraction of the Year – Stirling Smith Art Gallery and Museum.
Pub/bar of the Year – Slanj A Va. Business Support Services of the Year (sponsored by STEP Scotland) – Codebase Stirling.
Hair and Beauty Business of the Year – Allure Style Studio.
New Business of the Year (sponsored by the Fubar) – Simpson and Co Hair Salon.
The Stirling Business Awards 2024 showcase the entrepreneurial business owners and teams behind Stirling’s flourishing independent community.
The event also included a raffle for Stirling and District Women’s Aid which raised £1200.
Go Forth Stirling is the city’s BID representing more than 600 business owners with a key objective of increasing visitors to the city and devising initiatives to help make it a more welcoming destination for businesses and shoppers.
For more information, visit www. goforthstirling.co.uk