Stockport Express

Micro-brewer’s ale is no small feat

- JOHN CLARKE

ONE of the more interestin­g features of the exploding beer scene in recent years has been the number of home-brewers who get a commercial license but also continue to brew on a small scale.

Brewing can take place in garages or garden sheds.

One in Edinburgh brewed in the kitchen of his first floor flat. Such is the size of these breweries that only bottled beer is produced and of course brewing on this scale encourages experiment­ation.

The size of the brewhouse is often in inverse proportion to the ambitions, and usually the skill, of the brewers.

One of these is just down the road where Dave Harrison-Ward makes beers under the Macclesfie­ld Brewing Co. banner.

He obtained his brewing license in late 2015 and still brews on what he describes as a ‘tiny kit’ although this year may see a move to something bigger. I hope it does because the quality of the beers I have tried is such that they deserve a wider audience. There are few regular outlets for Macclesfie­ld Brewing Co. bottles but one is Heaton Hops on School Lane in Heaton Chapel and that’s where I picked up these three.

Mono Pekko (5.2%, 330ml, £3)

The ‘Mono’ series features individual hops, and mainly the less common varieties. Pekko is a new hop from the Washington State in the north-west USA and should bring floral, citrus and even mint notes to the beer. It does too.

Pouring a hazy orange there are hints of mandarin orange and sherbet on the nose.

As you drink there are herbal and resiny hops, orange pith bitterness and a balancing touch of sweet, juicy fruit. The finish is dry, bitter and long. This really is very good.

FOMO (5.7%, 330ml, £3.50)

‘FOMO’ is short for ‘Fear of Missing Out’ and is often seen online as craft beer fanatics seek out the latest craze. One new craze is a style of beer called ‘New England IPA,’ which originated in the States. These beers are low on bittering hops but high on floral and juicy aroma varieties but perhaps their defining characteri­stic is an at times quite extreme degree of haziness. Imagine an orange and mango J2O and you get the picture. This is a ‘North England’ IPA and pours out a slightly unappealin­g muddy amber – however do persevere as there are huge fruity hops on the nose with an almost sweet-savoury combinatio­n.

As you drink there’s a departure from the style with a huge depth of bitterness accompanie­d by distinct grapefruit notes.

Sappy hop resins continue to dominate and continue into a mouth-coating bitter finish. Not for everyone perhaps but I liked this a lot.

Chocolate Orange Stout (6.2%, 330ml, £3.50)

Cocoa nibs and blood oranges are in this dark brown beer that does exactly what it says. On the nose there are chocolate, dried fruit and orange while in the mouth bitter chocolate is to the fore while the orange plays more of a supporting role but it all comes together very well indeed. The finish is smooth with fruit and chocolate both playing their part. My bottle was quite highly carbonated and I think this very good beer would have been even better with a slightly smoother texture. Very enjoyable all the same.

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