Sunday Express

Hotel of the week

- BY ESTHER HALLIGAN

The Relais Henley WHERE AND WHY:

The Relais occupies a prime spot overlookin­g the river – right near the centre of busy Henleyon-thames, Oxfordshir­e.

Recently renovated by its new owner with Individual­ly redesigned accommodat­ions, this now contempora­ry 40-bedroom boutique hotel has been transforme­d into an eclecticch­ic waterside retreat, while upholding its history as a 16th-century coaching inn.

It’s popular with couples seeking a quiet weekend, corporate workers who book meeting rooms, and groups of friends enjoying a meal together.

ON THE MENU:

The hotel has a formal restaurant and a more casual bar – which lends itself to a game of backgammon over a pint – as well as an impressive, brand-new deli.

The gourmet deli has a separate entrance and draws in locals and tourists alike – the sumptuous display of cakes and pastries are utterly irresistib­le to passing shoppers and visitors.

The Clipper Restaurant opened as an outpost of Mosimann’s in London. The Belgravia club’s signature dishes are offered in a more intimate setting, which boasts attentive waiters, local beers and gins, and is open all day. A vintage dinghy hangs from the restaurant ceiling – a charming nod to Henley’s rowing fame.

The European menu includes Mosimann’s fishcakes with sauteed spinach, seared cannon of lamb with lamb sweetbread and wild garlic, and pan-roasted pave of sea trout with crispy Asian stir-fry vegetables.

The rib-eye steak Bordelaise with Orkney scallops was something special. For dessert we devoured sticky toffee pudding and a dark chocolate fondant with honeycomb ice cream.

Breakfast is not to be rushed and is the perfect opportunit­y to be adventurou­s. Cooked breakfasts – made to order – sit alongside cheeses, charcuteri­e, pastries, and fruit salads featuring pear and fig. Not to be missed.

The Clipper Restaurant offers a two-course menu for £35; or a three-course for £43.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE:

Henley-on-thames is ideal for relaxed shopping – the high street is a two-minute walk away.

Stroll alongside the river in the evening or enjoy a boat trip during the day. The hotel has a partnershi­p with Hobbs of Henley which offers boat hire and river cruises.

WAKE-UP CALL:

Rooms start from £190 a night including breakfast. therelaish­enley.com

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