Exploding skincare myths, plus the latest beauty must-haves
Caroline Hirons is the no-nonsense beauty guru with legions of loyal fans. In an extract from her new book, she debunks some common skincare myths…
Apart-time job working at a beauty counter is what first ignited Caroline Hirons’ love for all things skin. After qualifying as a beauty therapist and working for numerous brands, she started her own blog in 2010 which quickly went viral as readers loved her refreshingly honest take on what works – and what doesn’t.
Caroline now has a popular Youtube channel, a Facebook group affectionately titled Skincare Freaks and is also a regular on ITV’S This Morning.
Her new book, Skincare, is the ultimate guide on how to care for your face.
MYTH 1: If you have oily skin you do not need to moisturise
The biggest mistake people with oily/combination skin make is to try to “strip” the skin during the cleansing stage – to the point where it squeaks – faints – and
then not apply anything else on top and just go.
Your face is not a shampoo advert. You cannot just “wash’n’go”. For the more lubricated among us:
1. Cleanse your face with a good non-foaming cleanser (oil, cream, milk or gel – no mineral oil and no bubbles).
2. Exfoliate with an acid toner.
3. Spray hydrate.
4. Apply a light serum to target specific skin conditions (ageing, pigmentation, scarring/ dehydrate etc) if that is a concern.
5. Apply either a hyaluronic serum, a moisturiser, or even a facial oil designed for your skin type.
Use serums to treat your skin condition. Use moisturisers or facial oils to treat your skin type. Washing your face and going out with nothing on it is akin to leaving the house butt-naked.
MYTH 2: It’s OK to sleep in your make-up
Enough already. STOP SAYING that it is OK to sleep in your make-up. It is not.
The average woman wears a mix of the following: SPF, primer, foundation, powder, concealer, blusher, bronzer, eyeshadow (multiple), eyeliner, mascara, brow pencil, lip liner, lipstick, lip gloss.
That is a LOT of product on your face. SPF, in particular, is designed to stick to your face; that’s its job.
Add to that all the dirt and pollution from being outside and you have the perfect storm brewing for spots, dehydration, dullness – a whole plethora of issues.
Wash your face at night. Do not sleep in your make-up. If your partner prefers you with make-up, get a new partner.
MYTH 3: Eye products fix genetic dark circles
Are dark circles driving you mad? Have you tried everything under the sun to get rid of them?
Your options are limited in terms of what you can do about them, and there are definitely things that can make them worse. I’m talking specifically to my lovely Asian readers, darker-toned readers and even my lovely red-headed, extremely pale readers.
If you can see dark circles under your eyes and, to your knowledge, there is no particular reason for them, look at your parents/immediate family. If they also have dark circles, they probably run in your genes, and there isn’t a cream alive that will safely deal with that kind of dark circle.
Sure, there are excellent eye products that can take the edge off, and some brightening ones that will “lift” the appearance of them, but anyone who looks you in the eye and says “this cream will absolutely fix your dark circles” is either misinformed or not being completely straight with you.
It’s a little easier for those of us with occasional dark circles caused by things like illness, dehydration, or too much of a good (bad) thing, but genes are hard to mess with.
If you really hate the dark circles, you could talk to a dermatologist about trough filler: a non-surgical procedure, it involves injecting the area with hyaluronic acid filler, which sits just under the skin and essentially hides the dark circles. For most people, one treatment will last 12-18 months.
MYTH 4: Micellar waters are a “proper” cleanser
I am tagged on Twitter or Instagram on a daily basis whenever there is an article singing the praises about micellar waters, particular cleansers, or wipes (God – always the wipes!) online or in a magazine.
I read as many of them as
I can: sometimes they make me laugh, sometimes I find
I agree with them. But, articles describing micellar water as a cleanser are never one of those times.
Micellar waters were originally designed to be used for those occasional times when you have no access to water, like backstage at fashion shows (hence the huge awareness of Bioderma) or at a festival.
Firstly, I will never for the life of me understand why some people think that using these products is “quicker” than washing your face. If using micellar water is “quicker” than washing your face, you’re using it incorrectly.
A quick swipe across the forehead is not going to clean your face. When I have to use them backstage at shows it takes me at least four sets of two separate cotton pads to clean the face of make-up. Using both sides. That’s not quick.
Add to that the constant rubbing of cotton wool and ingredients that aren’t exactly “softening” and you’re setting yourself up for a sore face.
These waters are ingredientheavy, some contain alcohol and most contain fragrance. Before those of you that have to use micellar waters jump to their defence, as I’ve already said, do what you have to.
Work situations, new babies, flying, the gym – micellar waters can come in handy. But try to make them a temporary substitute, not a permanent fixture.
MYTH 5: Moisturiser is your most important purchase
I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve had a conversation with people who tell me they are using an incredibly expensive moisturiser but cleansing (or not) with wipes or a quick wash in the shower.
Your moisturiser is your coat. It’s your protection and “cushion” from the elements. Of course it’s important – and yes, you can find moisturisers that contain all sorts of lovely wonderful things such as peptides, vitamins and other active ingredients, but those ingredients will generally work better for you in a serum where they can more freely penetrate and get to work while your moisturiser stands guard.
There is absolutely no point in buying the latest “wonder” cream if you’ve done no prep work.
If you spend a fair amount of cash on your cleansing routine, including acid toners, and a bit more on a serum, you can get away with saving your pennies on a moisturiser.
There are, of course, as with anything in life, exceptions.
If you are 40+ it is potentially worthwhile using a high-tech moisturiser alongside your serum; one that also contains the “active” ingredients found in your serum. Attack it from all angles by all means. If you are on a tight budget, prioritise your spending on exfoliating acids and a good retinoid serum and you can get away with cheaper cleansers and moisturisers. How much time do you spend choosing your coat in the morning compared to picking your outfit? Your cleanse-acidserum routine is your “outfit”.
Put the work in and you’ll see the results. Just don’t forget your coat. ●S