Sunday Mirror (Northern Ireland)
Go wild in Canada
Alberta and leave behind European resorts on the doorstep? This was why. Fresh snow dumped every night I was there – up to 10 metres a year they say – leaving pockets of fluffy powder everywhere, even late in the day.
My ski highlight was Lake Louise’s Eagle Ridge’s, black diamond and double black diamond runs galore giving thrills on a wonderful day that will never be forgotten.
There was challenge on the mountain for all levels of skiers, from glades to ski through in powder, to very steep mogulled black runs, but all linking up with cruising blues. So groups of mates of different ability can stick together on the lifts. All amid the backdrop of the stunning Rocky Mountains and with gorgeous Lake Louise itself on the doorstep.
Until now it was a fantasy destination for me.
There’s a wild feel in the National Park protected area, with development limited and nature left to thrive. Just before we arrived there was a sighting of a grizzly bear on the piste who had awoken early from hibernation, then went back to bed.
There’s also true spirit of adventure in the Rockies. It’s a lifestyle. People visit for a fortnight and stay for years – skiers, trail runners, cross country skiers and hikers.
There’s no barging in lift queues, the friendly staff help with your skis and say hello, and always give helpful tips on routes to take.
Lake Louise is the biggest area, with hardly any of the mountain out of bounds, a 40 minute comfy free bus
ride away from our base in Banff. When your legs get tired and you’re hungry for lunch, try the delicious sushi rolls and sashimi at Kuma Yama at the resort’s base area.
Sunshine Village is up the road too, an expanse of beautiful terrain with black runs streaming down off Goat’s Eye Mountain, and gentler terrain off Lookout Mountain. That is apart from the short hike to ‘Delirium Dive’ the famous freeride area rated in the top 10 off-piste zones in the world. Refuel next to the log fire at Chimney Corner before plunging down more of the interestingly named runs – Cleavage, Mother-in-law, Sky-Dive, Afterburner and Chicken.
The baby brother area is Mount Norquay, 10 minutes from Banff town, and the place to hit the powder early and find virtually empty runs. What fun.
There are five lifts, including North American, which opens up a very steep series of black runs that local legend Eddie Hunter – aged 94, and as old as the resort – was out skiing!
You’ll need a pint of the locally brewed IPA (the pure river water has brought many independent brewers to the town) and a burger at the Lone Pine Pub to recover.
Banff is a town named by Scottish pioneers who built Canada’s transcontinental railway and who stumbled on hot springs, now part of a Unesco World Heritage site.
The top-end hotel is the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs, styled on a Scottish baronial castle, with multiple restaurants for breakfast and dinner, including the impressive Grapes.
Stylish modern lodgings are offered by the Moose Hotel and Suites, on Banff Avenue.
The ski season lasts seven months from November to May, and there’s stacks of adventure to be had in the summer when most visitors arrive.
Take a hike up the Johnston Canyon Icewalk in winter. We found climbers scaling walls of ice on the frozen waterfalls, and learned about the elk, moose, caribou and our guides’ encounters with grizzly bears in the summer (talk to them like they are a dog, don’t make eye contact and walk slowly away, apparently).
Sulphur Mountain, on the edge of Banff, makes for an awesome evening hike, or just get the cable car up. Viewing the sunset from the walkway is epic, a wonder of the world. There’s even a fire to warm your hands.
And then to the Sky Bistro, offering some of the best views you’ll ever get from a restaurant. And you can’t visit Banff without sampling bison, appropriately at The Bison. A 12oz steak with chimichurri sauce was the culinary highlight.
Maybe you’ve skied in Europe for years and think you’ve seen it all.
Stand on Eagle Ridge and make the swoop to the SkiBig3 in the Rockies. They really are special.
WAY TO SNOW
The resorts of SkiBig3 offer nearly 8,000 acres of skiing and 357 runs, the longest at 8km. There’s two gondolas, 26 chairlifts and in the towns there are 150 restaurants and more than 40
places to stay.
BIRD’S EYE VIEW Simon on top of the world in Banff
Viewing the sunset from the walkway is epic, a wonder of the world