Afjordable

Holiday like a local in one of their scenic second homes. What you save in money you’ll gain in views

It’s probably the most expensive country on the planet. A simple pint of beer can set you back £10 and even a coffee’s nearly half that. But it is possible to see this Scandinavian gem without breaking the bank.

First thing to know is that Airbnb is your friend. Most Norwegians own second homes; many are let out when not in use. So the per-head cost can be as low as £10 per night (whole properties go from around £50 per night), and it also allows you to travel deep into the countryside where there are no hotels.

And deep into the Norwegian countryside is very deep indeed.

“What is that noise?’ I asked my husband as a crunching overtook the babble of the nearby stream and a soft-voiced cuckoo paused in the woods behind.

BABBLED

“I think… I think it’s a car,” he said. And we both got up and craned to see the small bit of gravel road across the valley.

We’re city folk – not normally interested in passing cars, but it was 24 hours since we’d seen another living soul so this constituted a) big news and b) rush hour.

As the car disappeared over the hill we settled back down into our hammock. The cuckoo returned. The stream babbled on. The sun dappled through the silver birch and we turned our minds back to the day’s pressing issue – was it time to get the cheese out for lunch, or should we spend a bit more time contemplating the beautiful view?

This was the third Airbnb stop on our drive around the Norwegian Fjords in our mission to take in what many regard as the most beautiful country in the world – without bankrupting ourselves.

A bespoke log cabin, it had a turf roof of tufting grass and meadow flowers. Inside it was all Norwegian wood, pretty Scandi decor and a smattering of stag motifs. On the wall was a picture of two delightful toddlers, kitted out in that Norwegian uniform of chunky jumpers: a reminder that – as with most Airbnb properties – this was not just our holiday accommodation but a cherished family home.

Outside rolling hills of scattered forest tumbled down to the sparkling lake, all framed by snow-peaked mountains.

We arrived at our first property at 8pm after a long drive. Because it was Norway in summer, the sun was still shining brightly. Below the Arctic circle, you don’t get midnight sun as such, but you don’t get darkness either – just a kind of English twilight around 2am. The conversation went