Head for a brewski
In the cradle of Alpine skiing stands the most notorious – and arguably loudest – bar atop any mountain range in Europe. As we slide down on to the piste-side sun terrace after a hard day on the slopes, the après-ski at St Anton’s Krazy Kanguruh is already bouncing.
Long before the final lift leaves to climb the mountain, hundreds of revellers – everyone from mountain guides to family groups and even a banker dressed as a Pokémon character – are on the tabletops dancing in their ski boots.
The beer and schnapps are flowing and everyone is singing, enthusiastically conducted by the energetic DJ PartyHard.
The Krazy in Krazy Kanguruh is no idle boast ( krazykanguruh.com ). St Anton is where you ski hard and party harder.
Everyone is exhilarated at the end of another day speeding down St Anton’s astonishing 340km of groomed piste in one of the snowiest ski resorts in Europe.
By the time my husband, Matthew, and I leave the bar it is already dark and a tricky descent down the final leg of Run No21 awaits us.
Despite its recent expansion, St Anton, in Austria’s Alberg region, remains an authentic Tyrolean village at heart. And a week doesn’t really do its ski area justice.
SLIDE
And that’s without the new runs opening when new lifts link with nearby Lech and Zurs this season.
St Anton also has over 55km of challenging off-piste terrain, plus a highly efficient lift system – featuring 97 lifts – and an attractive town bursting with stylish hotels, chalets and restaurants. You fly into Innsbruck, a 75-minute drive.
The culinary must-do is the Hospiz Alm in neighbouring St Christoph. It has a celebrated wine cellar, and the basement can be accessed by a slide, so you don’t even have to remove your ski boots.
Everyone from tennis ace Boris Becker to royalty has whizzed down here on their backsides at some point. Another good reason to visit the Hospiz Alm is for its vast portions of delicious Tiroler Gröstl – Austrian bubble and squeak – warming goulash soup, tender ribs and oysters. You can enjoy a romantic lunch on the terrace or inside beside the roaring fire. But whichever you chose, reservations are essential ( arlberghospiz.at ).
The run down the daunting Valluga peak is one of St Anton’s great attractions. After a short black run – the most difficult grade of piste – there is a tricky red known simply as No14. From there, three easier blue runs take you gently back down.
We stayed at Mark Warner’s Chalet Hotel Rosanna, which has an adjoining bar, Scotty’s, where we continued to enjoy the apres-ski vibe well into the night. Scotty’s also houses a pizzeria with a traditional wood- burning oven. The 39-room Rosanna offers great food and is walking distance from the lifts. Breakfast, afternoon tea and a three-course dinner are provided.
Carved wood panelling gives the Rosanna a cosy atmosphere. It sits on the pedestrianised Dorfstrasse, a pretty street which cuts through the village centre.
If you take a day off skiing, there’s squash, tennis and 10-pin bowling at the Arl-Rock sports park and the Arlberg-well. com centre has indoor and outdoor swimming pools and saunas.
But this is a party town and many bars and clubs don’t even consider turning the lights off until 4am. When it comes to big skiing, soft snow and serious nightlife, St Anton ticks all the boxes. skiingbuddha.at/en stantonamarlberg. com
Ski and boot hire booked through Mark Warner is £185pp per week.
Five full days of ski/ snowboard classes for adults is £225pp.
Seven nights at Mark Warner’s Chalet Hotel Rosanna starts at £820pp for two adults sharing, including return Gatwick flights departing on March 26 and chalet board. markwarner.co.uk, 0844 273 6796