BLACKPOOL
This Gwynedd gem of a seaside town is full of charm, good food and local, um, characters
IT was a voice that has had many a player in the corridors of power quaking in his boots. But the butcher in the pretty seaside resort of Aberdyfi didn’t look all that intimidated as Christine Hamilton extolled her husband’s virtues.
“Not many people know he was educated at Aberystwyth University,” she trilled.
The former I’m A Celebrity contestant is still a political wife, but these days Neil, originally a Tory MP, is a UKIP member of the Welsh Assembly.
Deciding against having a debate with the Hamiltons, we ducked into the nearby Dovey Inn for a quiet pint.
We had come to Aberdyfi in Gwynedd to relax, having booked to spend one night only (because they were full) at the Penhelig Arms hotel which had received its first AA Rosette for its food.
While the Dovey Inn may be described as the town’s hub, the Penhelig, also owned by Cardiff-based brewers SA Brain, is more of a boutique hotel, with a restaurant, a snug bar and stunning views across the Dyfi estuary.
We were warmly welcomed in Welsh by the staff at Penhelig and shown to our Jones suite, named after one of four shipbuilders from the town’s Victorian heyday. The name Penhelig probably originates from the Welsh word ‘helyg’ meaning willow. The tastefully appointed suite was spacious. As well as a comfortable bed, and an en-suite bathroom with walk-in shower, there were teamaking facilities and a TV. After unpacking, we took our tea and coffee outside while marvelling at the views over the water to the sand dunes of Borth and further on to Aberystwyth before going for a short walk along the promenade to Aberdyfi. While Aber means “mouth of ” (a river normally), Dyfi means either deep river or a river of deep pools. At the harbour
Rooms at the Penhelig Arms Hotel in Aberdyfi, North Wales, start at £109 a night on bed and breakfast. sabrain. com, 01654 767215 we came across the Time and Tide bell mounted beneath the jetty in homage to the ancient legend about the lost kingdom of Cantre’r Gwaelod, now submerged beneath Cardigan Bay.
It is said its bells can still be heard ringing beneath the water, but today the bell is rung by the waves at high tide.
Aberdyfi is popular for sailing, rowing, fishing, golfing and walking. We decided to aim for Pen-y-Bryn – known locally as the Band Stand – an obvious viewpoint overlooking the village.
Suitably enlivened, we headed back to the Penhelig for dinner where we feasted on starters of lightly fried calamari and scallops followed by locally sourced lobster, washed down with a crisp, dry white wine. Then we enjoyed lemon tart, Welsh cheeseboard and coffee.
After a good night’s sleep, we took in the views and the sea air before tucking into an excellent Welsh breakfast.
Feeling refreshed, we would recommend the Penhelig Arms to anyone wanting to recharge their batteries.
Just keep an eye out for the Hamiltons. You have been warned.
the traffic and travel by train? The hotel is right by Penhelig railway station, on the Cambrian Line from Shrewsbury to Aberystwyth and Pwllheli with beautiful scenery as an added bonus.
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