Constance and a shore leave to savour
Toasting the vine near Lindau encouragement to try one in each. We jump on the glassedbottomed Karren-Kante jetty at the top. The platform offers panoramic views of the Swiss mountains, Rhine valley and the buzzing town of Dornbirn below.
Back down in the valley, it’s time to get out on that famous lake. During the summer months, when activities on offer include kayaking, wakeboarding, diving or simply
lazing in its many swimming spots, it would be tough to know where to start. But it’s autumn when we visit, so our water access is limited to huddling over steaming mugs of coffee on the ferry decks as we bomb along over the lake, crossing from port to port.
One harbour of note is the delightful Lindau, sprinkled with cafes and tiny boutiques along its cobbled streets.
It hosts a famous Bavarian Christmas market in December. The lake’s bustling namesake Konstanz is also full of charm and worth a visit. Both German harbour spots offer respite from activity – dawdling through the streets and watching the world go by are the most pressing tasks I face.
If you like your walks fuelled by a glass of something grapey and alcoholic, head three miles from Lindau’s Old Town to
Weingut Haug – one of Bavaria’s most renowned wineries. We wander through the Rhine valley and savour a glass of rosé while admiring the bulging vines and panoramic views of Switzerland, Germany and Austria.
A brief tour of the fermenting room and a tasting of six types follows along with some local Brotzeit (farmhouse fare which translates as “bread time”) to soak up the booze (£129 per group up to 10 people).
Keen for one last lakeside excursion, we spend our final morning exploring the Isle of Mainau – also known as flower island. As its nickname suggests, it is a stunning giant garden – accessible by bus or boat then foot.
It blooms with 45 hectares of immaculately kept lawns and petals from mid-March to midOctober (£16 adults, £9 child or £34 family of four).
I lose myself in its impressive flowerbeds, before it’s time to board a train from Konstanz back to Zurich.
But next time I want quick access to some unspoiled outdoor spots and three countries and a lake to choose from, I’ll be back with my hiking boots.
And I’ll be laced up and ready to rock and stroll.