Keep on Småling

Pine trees as far as the eye can see, an empty road and absolute silence. That’s the blissful scene in front of us as we stop to check our route while cycling in Småland.

No, not the kids’ area in Ikea, but nature’s playground in southern Sweden.

We had touched down two days earlier at Gothenburg airport, then headed towards Jönköping in the north of the province, a couple of hours’ drive away.

Our base for the night was the brilliantly named Västanå Slott hotel.

Built in 1590, it became Sweden’s first castle hotel in the 1940s. Now run by Fredrik van Otter, who took over from his father in 2003, its sumptuous interior of high ceilings, vast walls adorned with oil paintings and opulent drapes and furnishings left us feeling like Swedish royalty.

It is also set in glorious countryside so we couldn’t wait to pick up our mountain bikes and hit the tracks through thick forests, past traditional red Swedish houses and enjoy the magnificent views across the Vättern, the country’s second largest lake.

You can take the sting out of hills by hiring an eBike. Mine didn’t take the sting out of two spectacular tumbles, but luckily the soft mossy carpet did. Dinner at the hotel that night was a rich crayfish bisque followed by duck, then, as the chef described it, the traditional Swedish version of crème brûlée.

Next day we went to Isaberg Mountain Resort – Småland’s biggest adventure destination. A ski resort in winter, it’s equally popular in summer for its outdoor activities.

There are 14 mountain bike trails, graded like ski slopes for all levels, plus technical courses and road bike-friendly routes surrounding the resort. There’s also a high-ropes tree-top adventure, kayaking on the lake and the “mountain coaster” – a 1km toboggan track.

Bikes can be hired from around £34 per day, which includes access to the trails. Guides cost an extra £41 per hour. I went for a 16-mile mountain bike ride, this time