Krakow in Pole position
Alexander Brock explores a stunning city full of history
On a sunny afternoon in the Jewish district of Krakow a man dressed like one of The Sopranos swaggers up to our table where we’re having lunch and introduces himself as ‘Crazy Mike’. So far, so weird. The character then leads us down the road to a vintage Trabant, an iconic East German car, and takes us on a whirlwind drive around Nowa Huta, an enormous communist community built in 1949 to accommodate thousands of workers at a huge steel factory on the edge of the city.
Tour guide Mike tells us it was the most ambitious project of urban planning in post-war Poland: a utopian socialist city designed for the workers of the Vladimir Lenin Steelworks factory.
From the 1950s-era milk bars to the meeting rooms and tunnels of the abandoned factory itself, it offers a snapshot of life in communist Poland.
This whistle-stop tour, complete with authentic-tothe-era transport, proved an eye-opening introduction to Poland’s second-largest city.
Free of boring facts and full of funny stories and tales of everyday experiences, it was a meaningful and memorable introduction to history-packed former royal capital.
Hailed as Europe’s most compelling city by Unesco,
Krakow’s vast array of architectural styles, most of which remained intact after the Second World War, reflect the richness of its past, spanning more than 1,000 years.
The Old Town district is a great place to get a sense of its stories over the
centuries. There are dozens of palaces, churches and mighty landmarks including the Gothicstyle Cloth Hall, considered to be the world’s oldest shopping centre and Europe’s largest medieval market square.
Named Rynek Główny, this square is home to buzzing cafes and restaurants with lots of outdoor seating so you can bask in the sun and watch as the horse-drawn carriages sweep by.
One of the most inviting restaurants on the square is The Piano Rouge, a decadently decorated subterranean eatery serving modern Polish food, such as its pierogi dumplings, all to the sound of daily live jazz concerts.
There’s also Wesele, a romantic venue with folksy decor which prides itself on traditional Polish cuisine including placki ziemniaczane – those wonderfully moreish potato pancakes.
And while taking in the sights of the square, you’ll get to witness a trumpeter who plays from the highest tower of the brick-built Saint Mary’s Basilica every hour, 24 hours a day, 365 days of the year. The signal, called the Hejnal Mariacki, and which breaks off mid-stream, is to commemorate a trumpeter who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city in 1241.
Just a few minutes walk away from here are two of Krakow’s most beautiful architectural creations – Wawel Royal Castle and its cathedral, where Polish monarchs were crowned and buried.
Set up on a hill, more than 900 years of history are contained within this unique building complex, including the John Paul II Cathedral
‘Crazy Mike’ leads us to a vintage Trabant for a drive around Nowa Huta
Museum, the Royal Palace and the Dragon’s Den, an 886ft grotto reaching all the way to the banks of the Vistula River. Close by is what I thought to be the best restaurant of the trip – Pod Baranem, a charming place full of antique furniture and artwork which served an excellent pork schnitzel.
When it comes to museums, Krakow has a lot to offer, including Princes Czartoryski Museum which houses one of the most valuable art collections in Europe.
It includes portraits by Polish nobilities, works by legendary Dutch painter Rembrandt and arguably Poland’s pride and joy – Lady with an Ermine by Leonardo da Vinci.
If you’re after something with some hi-tech wizardry, the Rynek Underground Museum, hidden beneath the main square, will be right up your street (or under it, if you live in the centre of Krakow).
The interactive attraction gives a fascinating insight into how much the city has changed over hundreds of years and is full of touchscreens and holograms.
In a city where history is so defining, every effort has been made to make each part moving and meaningful. Kazimierz is the former Jewish district which was changed forever during the war.
After the Nazis invaded, many of the Jewish people of Krakow were moved to a ghetto across the river and later killed at death camps. Dozens of chairs have been placed across the re-named Ghetto Heroes Square, formerly
Zgody Square, to pay tribute to the victims of the ghetto, the empty chairs symbolising the emptiness of the Jewish district after the war finally came to an end.
Seeing the memorial, as well as the nearby enamel factory of Oskar Schindler, which is now a museum, were some of the most poignant moments of the trip. Despite the dark history running deep in its streets, Kazimierz is now a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with atmospheric cafes, vibrant markets and art galleries. It’s a great place to grab some lunch – try Bazaar Bistro for a meze of breads, cheeses and olives.
The five-star Sheraton Grand Hotel is the place to be if you want to be right in the heart of the city. It’s at the foot of Wawel Castle, steps away from the Market Square, and from the rooftop terrace, there are beautiful views of the Vistula River.
Packed with medieval masterpieces and modern-day monuments, Poland’s loveliest city will delight you, excite you, make you think and cry.
Poland’s loveliest city will delight, excite, make you think and cry