Suffolk is best to rest
Breaking snooze… Denis Mann finds it’s all quiet on the eastern front
SLEEPY Suffolk has so much for a relaxing break. For me that mainly meant a good kip, sometimes involuntarily. For starters, our quaint cottage had a big comfy bed that was near-impossible to vacate.
But I found the pace of life slowed so much that I was never far from a cheeky 40 winks.
Our base was near Stowmarket, right in the centre of the county.
So it was easy to strike out south for rambles in Dedham Vale, home of John Constable’s lush landscapes.
East takes you to the coast and classy seaside towns such as Aldeburgh.
Here you can settle on a bench facing the sea and watch the zippy swifts at play, listening to the crash of sea on pebbles and
maybe catch a few zees. Suffolk is perfect for a trundle in the car, pleasingly old-fashioned with cattle and sheep standing knee-deep in meadows, lots of big trees and interesting buildings at every turn.
You can forget the 21st century for a few blissful minutes. And much of the 20th.
I noticed a deer park on the map one morning and turned into Helmingham Hall on spec. It wasn’t yet open to the public, but they let me in a few minutes early.
So I had the 16th century pile’s gorgeous gardens to myself for a short while.
Naturally I made myself comfortable with the most satisfying view of the moat. Perfect symmetry, a sense of order, peace.
I opened a book and instantly dropped off again. Later, refreshed, I yomped off into the surrounding park to see the herds of red and fallow deer – a charming sight.
We were on a dog-friendly break, but it was a school week so we came up with a plan. My wife Lesley and our mutt Nelly would come with pal Natalie and her two terriers for a couple of days. And I’d come for a decompression session afterwards.
Woodfarm Barns specialises in people who demand a dollop of luxury, but share it with their dogs.
Your pet is positively welcomed here, not reluctantly accepted like many other places. There’s even a two-acre, fully enclosed meadow where Fido can run free and use the facilities.
The women explored Dedham and Debenham on days one and two and the dogs had a ball. Then we met at the coast for the swap. Sadly, our Nelly needed a trip to the vet so
I yomped off into the surrounding park to see the herds of red deer
I returned alone after a scamper on the beach.
Naturally then, the first stop was a local brewery and Burnt Mill near Stowmarket fitted the bill. Equipped with a variety of tasty brews, I sped to Woodfarm House to try one and made the mistake of having a sit down. It was dark when I awoke.
There’s barely a straight line in the accommodation, beams aplenty, pleasantly worn wood on floors and surfaces, an
Aga in the kitchen and that big bed upstairs.
Most of the
Woodfarm cottages have a hot tub in a private courtyard garden.
I’m not a big fan, but when I peeked under the cover the swirling water looked mighty inviting.
I had no trunks, but I was alone so changed into clean undies and marched out with only my phone for company.
Clunk! I was locked out, miles from anywhere, barefoot and wearing only my Ys. Luckily, I had the owner’s number who guided me down a long gravel drive (agony!), past a couple of other cottages (mortifying!) and into an outbuilding where, after entering several security codes, I got my sweaty hands on a spare key. Saved.
I did try the hot tub in the end and enjoyed it.
Tell you what though, I don’t know if it was the bubbles or the Burnt Mill beer, or the sheer relief from the trauma... but I slept like the dead that night. Good job too, I was ready
for a nice kip.
‘‘
Beams are aplenty, worn wood on floors and an Aga in the kitchen