Kerching Kong

ONCE you’ve made eye contact, there’s no escape. chicken, dumplings and greens and bottles of ice-cold San Miguel beer.

The aromas of garlic, ginger, soy and spice fill the sticky night air as people chat away, laughing, eating and drinking under the colourful glow of the market lights.

For those wanting bargains, there is plenty on offer, including clothes, DVDs, mobile phone accessories, lighters, belts, electronics and watches. I hear the imitation Rolexes are so good that most people can’t tell them from the real thing.

Tent after tent of fortune tellers mix in with street stalls selling everything but the kitchen sink.

A film was being shot in one busy restaurant as I wandered around, while high-pitched wailing could be heard as tipsy locals sang Chinese songs with gusto. But after a hard day’s haggling and exploring, I was ready for bed.

I stayed at the newly renovated Dorsett Wanchai, which has a horsey theme to it. No surprise as it overlooks Happy Valley Racecourse.

It offers a variety of signature rooms, including a Jockey Suite, which was out of my price range.

Vertical

All r ooms come with a smartphone, which i ncludes unlimited 4G internet as well as free local and some international calls.

Just over a mile away is Lan Kwai Fong. In 1841, this central coastal area is where the British landed and laid claim to Hong Kong.

July marks the 20th anniversary since the territory was returned to China after more than 150 years of British rule. But you are reminded of the British influence everywhere – most noticeably the road signs.

With its steep narrow streets and alleys, Lan Kwai Fong is the trendy part of town.

Expect boutiques, tea houses, craft beer shops, galleries, cafes, bars and parks.

But as with many parts of this former colony, you’re dwarfed by shiny glass, metal and concrete – apartments, hotels, businesses and shopping malls. It is a vertical city.

The best way to see how vertical is by perching on Victoria Peak, Hong Kong’s highest point, 396m above sea level. It was atmospheric and mystical. But being among the low clouds I could not see much.

I had better luck checking out the impressive skyline from the Clock Tower at Tsim Sha Tsui during the Symphony of Lights.

Every night at 8pm, families and couples flock to this dazzling light and sound show, involving more than 40 buildings.

That night, my luck was in again. Back at t he Happy Valley Racecourse, I backed a winner.

And I could not have bet on a more action-packed stay. Or wilder shopping trip. FACTFILE: Virgin Atlantic flights from Heathrow start at £ 479pp, see virginatlantic.com or call 0844 2092 770. Rooms at the Dorsett Wanchai start from £100, see dorsett.com.