The rites STUFF
Great Lakes adventure with the first Canadians
THE minibus halted suddenly and Steve jumped out to lift an old snapping turtle off the road on to a grassy verge. birthday, the first nation people are intent on revitalising and sharing the culture, language and tradition the early settlers hoped to wipe out.
Central to this is the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation in M’Chigeeng. Here visitors are introduced to their teachings, history and rituals – such as smudging, a cleansing ceremony using smoke from sweet grass.
There is also an explanation of the clan system and some amazing artwork, including boxes intricately decorated with porcupine quills.
An even more visual celebration is the pow wow, where all ages dance in spectacular outfits to drums and songs. Women called jingle dancers wear metal cones on their dresses and male dancers put on beads, tassels, bells, eagle-feathered bustles and porcupine hair headdresses.
Randy, a retired school teacher, looked spectacular – as did Lloyd, 61, an ex-roofer from Toronto.
Visitors can join the dances. Sadly my crow hop, leaping from one foot to the other, was more Dunces With Wolves than Wayne Sleep.
I managed better weaving a dream catcher, to protect from evil, in the longhouse of the Great Spirit Circle Trail with the help of Ojibwe Craig Fox who, like Steve, is also a guide.
Moss
But it is the keen use of nature that impresses most. On a medicine walk Steve pointed out black poplar buds used in a paste to close wounds, maple saplings for wigwams, ironwood for cough syrup and bows, cedar leaves for tea, balsam gum for mouth sores and moss for nappies.
Even poison ivy, with its fast- spreading, hot rash, was burned to waft toxic smoke at enemies.
The Trail HQ also has tepees for glamping, offering stories around the firepit, showers… and wifi.
But after exhilarating canoe trips with Craig on Lake Huron, bracing swims and getting pummeled beneath the island’s own 35ft Bridal Veil Falls, the comforts of the Manitoulin Hotel and Conference Center were the remedy I craved.
Its quality beds and friendly staff were matched by abundant meals and fabulous views. Manitoulin’s imposing swing bridge – its only road access – lies to the east and Little Current, the main town with a population of 1,500, to the west.
Little Current is impeccable with its marina, pretty row of shops, stalls selling local produce and the excellent Anchor Inn selling beer from the island’s two breweries.
And if you’re really lucky, guitarist Rick Watson might be taking requests. When asked for a Neil Young number he performed a beautifully lilting Harvest Moon.
Here on magical Manitoulin, “Go out and feel the night” isn’t just a lyric, it’s the first nation way of life. FACTFILE: Return Air Canada flights from Heathrow to Sudbury £912.27. Manitoulin Hotel & Conference Centre from £95 a night, medicine walk £19.60, dream catcher experience £36, sunrise/sunset canoe tour £81.75. All prices have 13 per cent tax on top. See ontariotravel.net, circletrail.com, manitoulinhotel.com.