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province of Ontario. A permanent capital was needed and in 1858 Queen Victoria diplomatically chose Ottawa, as it was on the border between the two provinces.
Despite its rapid growth it was widely thought of as a dull administrative capital and often overlooked by tourists preferring to visit Toronto or Montreal.
But today the city has a blooming cultural and contemporary scene, and is a destination in its own right.
Just below the gentle incline of Parliament Hill is the cool Byward Market, the commercial heart of Lower Town.
Once a slum neighbourhood built on drained swampland, it’s now one of Canada’s oldest and largest public markets – a colourful hub of stalls and shops selling an array of local produce as well as art and craft and souvenir stores, with bars and restaurants. The whiskey- sodden lumberjacks who overran the taverns, inns and brothels are long gone but there’s still much merriment in the many bustling bars.
Live music is still popular and abundant, and the clientele are a pleasant mix of people of all ages.
Massive
perched dramatically above the opposite side of the river.
It is a short and pleasant walk across the bridge, or a ferry ride from the locks where the Rideau Canal meets the Ottawa River.
Next to these massive locks is a small but interesting museum telling the harsh history of the 126-mile canal, and the 1,000 or so people who died constructing it.
The canal is a Unesco World Heritage Site. One stretch becomes officially the world’s largest ice rink when it freezes over in winter.
I was there in autumn so the only rink I saw was that of the Ottawa Senators, the local ice hockey team.
Drink in one hand, towering salt beef sandwich in the other, I looked down upon the players swarming breathlessly, engrossed by their intricate passing and movement – and bruising collisions.
The flashing lights and blaring music was very North American, but it was awesome entertainment – and a great way to finally take in a bit of New World culture. FACTFILE: Ottawa Tourism: www. ottawatourism. c a. From Heathrow, Air Canada operates the only daily direct service to Ottawa, with return economy flights starting from £555.77 per person. Fares are inclusive of taxes and subject to change. See www.aircanada.com or call reservations on 0871 220 1111. Stay at The Westin Ottawa – www.westin.com/Ottawa.