Glam and JERUSALEM Israel’s surprising side, with beaches, beer and bikes

my stay and there were few signs of conflict. But it goes without saying that this is one of the most hotly disputed parts of the world, steeped in thousands of years of history.

It would be unwise to begin any visit without a trip to Yad Vashem, Israel’s memorial to the Holocaust.

There are no easy answers to conflict in the Middle East but this guided tour helped put everything into context – without politics.

Even my own Jewish heritage couldn’t prepare me for the full extent of the atrocities on display. But the museum helps explain why Israel was founded 70 years ago.

From this sombre start I was free to explore the rest of Jerusalem and see what makes the 3,000-year-old city tick. Sights like the Western Wall and Temple Mount are unmissable, marking thousands of years of religious history – Jewish, Christian, Islamic and many religions you won’t have heard of.

A big surprise was the thriving nightlife in the Mahane Yehuda market. On Thursday night, the 250 fruit and vegetable stalls close their shutters to reveal a gallery of graffiti art Banksy would be proud of.

Hipster

The marketplace is turned into a hipster paradise with craft beer and street food aplenty.

Beerbazaar offers at least 100 Israeli brews at its sites around the city, and a dizzying variety of stronger hooch can be found if you look hard enough.

Once your hangover settles, it’s easy to explore the old city by Segway, if you can’t bear walking in the blazing sunshine. But if you want a much more modern look at Israel, then Tel Aviv is the best place to go – and it’s only an hour’s drive away.

Whereas in Jerusalem everything is steeped in time-honoured religion, this city on the Mediterranean is as modern as it gets.

And you must visit Jaffa, a happening port in the south of the city where artists sell their wares in ancient streets.

A stroll back along the beach into central Tel Aviv will take you as far as the Carmel market, which sells spices, foods and souvenirs.

Both can be reached conveniently by bicycle, either hired from an operator who will give you a tour of the city, or using one of the rental bikes locked up around Tel Aviv.

If you do want to explore, then well-used routes stretch the length of the city’s nine-mile coastline. It’s a leisurely way to look at the beautiful people who while away their days on the boardwalks.

Or why not just stretch out on the beach – there are 13 of them in Tel Aviv and they are beautiful. And no one can argue with a spot of sun worshipping on your holiday. FACTFILE: El Al fly to Israel from London from about £450, but flights with Easyjet and Wizzair can be had for as little as £135 this July. Entry to the Yad Vashem memorial centre is free. A two-hour Segway tour will cost about £40. A day’s cycle hire in Tel Aviv will cost about £3.50, from one of the docking stations.