L T I P S V E R T
Palm trees sway in the sea breeze, boat lights twinkle in the harbour and the delicious smell of barbecued lamb gently wafts from restaurants.
It is easy to see why thousands of Brits flocked here for their summer holidays time and time again. Yet the passing tourists seem to be speaking every language but English.
It is the first real reminder of my trip that the LTI Bellevue Park hotel – my home for the week – is in an area of Tunisia called Sousse.
Once the jewel in the crown of the Tunisian Riviera, the strip of coast became a byword for terror in June 2015 after a shocking attack by an extremist gunman. In all, 38 tourists were killed – 30 of them Brits – when he opened fire on the beach.
And it also devastated the booming tourist economy.
Yet three years on, I couldn’t have felt safer.
Still, of the 300-odd rooms in the magnificently refurbished hotel, the manager told me only ten were occupied by Brits.
Like many of the hotels that have had a facelift to entice new custom, security at Bellevue is top-notch. Entrances are guarded by friendly security and discreet bag and body scanners ensure everyone is there for the right reason – to enjoy themselves. And on my five-day trip, that’s just what I did.
Port El Kantaoui is six miles from the historic city of Sousse, so it is a perfect mix for those who want relaxation and a taste of culture.
We headed into Sousse to experience the Arabian feel of the beautiful Medina quarter – the medieval old town. A stunning seafront fort dominates the view, along with a minaret that served as a watchtower during conflicts that shaped the nation’s history.
If the kids – or big kids – in your life fancy an adventure, visit one of the Star Wars filming locations that are dotted around southern Tunisia. Four of the 10 movies were shot there. Ask at your hotel reception for advice on drivers and tour guides. Leave some room in your luggage. Swimwear doesn’t take a lot of space and you won’t need much else. The beautiful textiles and ceramics you can buy in the markets of Sousse are beautiful and excellent value.
Spices
From part of the Roman Empire to a French colony and now an independent Arabic state, cultures intertwine in the sandy-coloured streets. A museum at the fort tells its story and also provides shade from the midday sun. A fabulous market snakes through, selling spices, textiles and pottery plus shisha pipes, postcards and the usual tourist tat. The more modern side of town serves up shopping centres for a Western shopping experience. But I wanted authentic Tunisian sights and smells. And at the hotel, I got just that. The buffet was a feast for the senses, with traditional barbecued spiced meats falling off the bone. And, yes, also pizza and pasta for the less adventurous. The beautiful hotel also has a dream pool metres from the beach, and staff bring you ice-cream and drinks to cool you down. They really can’t do enough for guests – they know everyone by name and remember their favourite tipples.
And did I mention the hotel is all-inclusive? A white silk band gets you unlimited food and drink.
Entertainment is thrown into the bargain too. Aqua aerobics, water polo and kids’ activities around the pool all break up the day.
In the evenings, a giant TV showed sport and films and there was live music and cabaret too.
Water sports did cost extra – paragliding was a popular, affordable option with daredevils soaring through the air, often visible from the comfort of my lounger.
When time came to leave for Tunisia Airport, 90 minutes away, I was sad to say goodbye to the amazing staff, who make this hotel what it is.
Tunisia has so much to offer and the locals are desperate to share it with Brits who once flocked there.
My advice? Book while prices are still low. Because once word spreads that Sousse is open for business, I’ve no doubt it will be buzzing again. FACTFILE: Tunisair has flights to Tunis from Gatwick from £39, tunisair.com. Or fly with Thomas Cook from £33.99, thomascook.co.uk. A double room in the LTI Bellevue starts from £102pn, all-inclusive. See lti.de.