L T I P S V E R T
This impressive fortress on the edge of beautiful Cascais, just a 40 minute drive from Lisbon, has been perched on the coast since 1642.
In the 18th century it helped Portugal, in alliance with Britain, fend off a Spanish invasion during the Seven Years War.
The brief conflict between Spain and Portugal in 1762-63 is called – on both sides – the Fantastic War because no battles were fought.
Now this part of Portugal draws a fun-seeking crowd for its excellent surf and ocean swell, caused by the Fortaleza’s constant assailant – the Atlantic gusts.
Guincho means howl, our taxi driver Antonio told us on the run into Cascais from Lisbon airport.
It refers to the wind. And as we settled into the walled sun terrace with stunning views down the beach, we first felt its impressive force.
From nowhere the famous local breeze suddenly picked up, tossing glasses from nearby tables and forcing us to cling to our drinks that little bit harder.
Because it has been a hotel since 1959, you feel its history as soon as you walk through the arch where the portcullis once dropped, past the cannons that flank the door, and into the bright courtyard on to which all the rooms face.
As you climb the winding stairs to the delightful rooms you can almost imagine the soldiers running to man the battlements.
Thankfully this is now a quiet spot to relax and partake in some truly stunning food. Along with the views, the Fortaleza do Guincho is a destination for serious foodies, having being awarded a Michelin star in 2001.
In the hands of executive chef Gil Fernandes, the offerings inspired by the surrounding ocean with local fruits and vegetables, looked too good to choose from so we plumped for the tasting menu.
Billed as four courses, it ended up as nine fabulous dishes with all the “...and the chef would just like you to try a little of this” plates that came our way. The food is a big part of the attraction on this stretch of coast.
The morning after our amazing meal, my husband Ben and I we felt we should earn the right to our next feast with a bike ride.
Bicycles can be rented from the hotel with central Cascais just a 20 minute ride away. But we chose to be taken up into the hills of Sintra by expert guide Lorenzo, from Lisbon Bike Tour and Outdoors.
SEE Caiscas from a different angle by taking a leisurely boat ride down the coast from the town’s marina. Aqua Start Boat Trips charge £160 for a one hour trip.
LARGO de Camões is the hub for Cascais’s bars, filled with all sorts of music. It is also home to Terraco Ba, one of the city’s best rooftop venues.
TRY the famous Portugese custard tart – pasteis de nata – at classic bakery Sacolinha. The bread is delicious and they serve
breakfast too.
The undulating streets and narrow lanes, surrounded by pristine palaces and churches, have a feel of Paris’s Montmartre about them, but set in the middle of a vast national park.
After fuelling up with a speciality pastry and an espresso at one of the many traditional bakeries, Lorenzo – an Italian/german who found himself in Portugal because of a girl – drove us high into the forest.
We put our pedal power to the test through tree-lined roads and down gravelly dirt tracks, to take in the mountain air and admire the views from up on high.
But I’ll admit we did cheat a bit, letting the electric motor take the strain at times, which makes this trip possible for all ages. Oh, how I could have done with an electric bike all those years ago on my paper round.
Heading back to the hustle and bustle of normal life after just two days was difficult but no matter how long you stay here, like the glasses whipped from the tables by Cascais’ famous wind, you’ll have a smashing time. FACTFILE: Hotel Fortaleza do Guincho offers double rooms from £120 including breakfast. The Fortaleza’s Gastronomic Restaurant four-dish tasting menu starts from £80 per person. Lisbon Bike Tour’s guided bike ride is £45 per person – to which you can add a gourmet picnic for an extra £25 per head.