E L T I P S V R T
Hey, who cares?
The zebra and leopard to my left certainly aren’t complaining.
Neither am I, dancing along with pals on our own table. And, no, the altitude hasn’t got to us.
We’re at mountain bar La Folie Douce – translation Sweet Madness – having a farewell blast after a week on the piste. Yes, piste I said.
We’ve blitzed the blue runs, roared down the reds, braved – sometimes bodged – the blacks and tittered at the T.rex and his fancy-dress ski pals.
With 265 miles of pistes to play with from Villaroger to the east, Plagne Montalbert to the west and the dizzying 10,500ft peak of Aiguille Rouge, a week is barely enough.
But a base in Plan Peisey, in the French Alps, at least gives us a shot at reaching the slopes other locations can’t.
Our Ski Beat chalet Fleur de Neige – Snow Flower – is ideally positioned, 50 metres from a chairlift towards Les Arc, while the mighty Vanoise Express glass-floored double decker cable car whisks 200 people to neighbouring resort La Plagne in just over three minutes.
Queues for the express are rarely a problem but at peak times, ten-minute jams at other lifts are not uncommon.
Worth it, though, once you have snake-and-laddered your way to the open pistes that make this huge area so appealing.
There are plenty of challenging reds and more than enough “happy” blues to cater for all – while off-pisters can have a field day too.
Over at La Plagne the mountains open up to reveal yet more spectacular scenery. Pistes cut a swathe through 60ft pine trees in picture-postcard settings.
The adventurous can zip in and out of the forest itself. But take care. When I lead the way, a four-man pile-up ensues.
Minutes later we hit upon an icy
A SKI pass for Peisey-vallandry/les
Arcs costs £241 but for £35 more you get the Paradiski pass which also takes in La Plagne. Grab discounts for families, seniors and multiple tickets.
DOWNLOAD the Yuge ski app for resort info, lift wait times and a natty speedometer and distance checker. CHECK the French school holidays to avoid log jams and make the most of “off peak” times on the slopes, especially
around lunch. red and look like beginners as we repeatedly topple like ninepins. Fret not. We revisit the same slopes a few days later and, after a welcome snow fall and in brighter conditions, we smash it.
Seventy per cent of the slopes are above 6,500ft, so snow is assured.
You can try the luge, snow parks with jumps, paragliding and even attempt skiing across a pool. Not everyone makes it.
Rubberly
Six days of skiing is hard. So relax at Fleur de Neige, a 15-berth chalet, all rooms en suite, where my 20-year-old son Joe and I happily mingle with newfound friends.
You can rent rooms individually or the whole chalet.
Hosts Carol and Tony spoil us with cooked breakfasts, afternoon tea and cake – to die for – and fabulous three-course evening meals with wine. There’s a sauna too, as many Ski Beat chalets have. And a welcome visit from Sarah, of mobile therapists Massage Me, was absolutely rubberly.
On the Wednesday – day off for the chalet hosts – we stroll to nearby village Vallandry for a tasty meal at the welcoming L’address restaurant. After all that wholesome chalet grub we opt for a drink, pizza and supersized dessert for 21 euros. Not bad.
On the way we stumble across a crowd watching dancing fire eaters. As you do.
And if you are looking for more off-slope fun there is a swimming pool at Les Arcs 1800, spa hotels, bowling and shopping, with free shuttle buses between the centres.
Plan Peisey isn’t party central but bars such as Mont Blanc are open into the wee hours to keep night owls happy.
So the younger ones told me. It’s been a happy week. Great pistes, fab food, new friends – and a smashing location. I love it when a Plan comes together. FACTFILE: A week’s fully hosted ski holiday to Plan Peisey costs from £599pp in 2020. Includes Gatwick flights (Manchester for £20 extra), transfers and seven nights at a catered chalet. A week at Fleur de Neige costs from £699pp. See skibeat.co.uk. Ski Beat has 59 chalets in the French Alps in nine snow-sure resorts.