Shingle coolest
WALKING along the coast in Dungeness pre-lockdown, the desolate landscape could have been a setting for a bleak, post-apocalyptic film. A sign of the times to come?
In the shadow of a nuclear power station, this strangely beautiful spit of land in Kent, jutting out into the English Channel, has inspired artists and musicians for decades.
Its barren landscape featured on the cover of Pink Floyd’s album A Collection of Great Dance Songs, and former residents include film director Derek Jarman.
It’s no surprise that one million tourists make an annual trip to this strange three-mile stretch of land – an area so stark it is known as Britain’s only desert.
It has one of the largest shingle beaches in Europe and is a haven for wildlife watchers and nature fans, with more than 600 species of plants.
While it is a ten-minute drive from our base at Parkdean Resorts’ Romney Sands Holiday Park, the best way to get there is by train.
Called Kent’s Mainline in Miniature, the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway has charming one-third size steam locomotives.
Covering 13.5 miles of track from the Cinque Port town of Hythe, terminating in Dungeness, there are four stations along the way – including one at the holiday park to pick us up.
With two young children in tow, we found it a magical way to travel, with the steam pouring into the sky from the train, which certainly added to the spooky atmosphere.
Starting at Hythe and travelling to the end of the track takes around an hour – just enough time to build up an appetite.
We stopped at the Pilot Inn, which dates back to 1633 and is steeped in smuggling history.
It is reportedly made from the wrecked timber of the ship Alfresia, a Spanish vessel that was lured aground so that its cargo of brandy and gold was stolen.
Naturally the pub specialises in fish and we settled for two large cod and chips, at £13.50 each, and there was a good value kids’ menu for £6.50 featuring all the usuals, such as spag bol and sausage and chips.
Beers were tasty too with a selection of warming local ales, including a stonking Shepherd Neame Master Brew, and an extensive dessert menu to keep the small ones happy.
The pub sits in the shadow of the impressive Dungeness Lighthouse, a
Grade II listed building that was opened in 1904 by the then Prince of Wales, and later George V.
Its light, which flashed every ten seconds and could be seen for 18 miles, provided much-needed assistance to sailors trying to navigate the perilous waters of the English Channel.
Eventually decommissioned in 1960, it now serves as a tourist attraction where on a clear day you can enjoy views across Romney Marsh.
And it’s worth the admission, £4.40 for an adult and £3 for kids, for the views inside with a series of stunning slate mezzanine floors supported by steel beams and wrought-iron banisters.
With our cheeks thoroughly windswept and somewhat weary after a day’s sightseeing, we hopped on to the train for the short trip back to the holiday park.
There the four of us were staying in a rather luxurious Willerby Rio Gold, a holiday home that was spacious and had everything from a large TV to a USB charging point.
Stick the heating on and the whole caravan warmed up in minutes – a very welcome respite after a breezy day by the coast.
Facilities at the park ticked every box for a young family, in my case, girls aged seven and ten. The indoor pool was a particular highlight with the pair taking part in “water walking” which is effectively running on the top of the pool inside a massive blow-up ball.
I was happy to watch from the sidelines, although I was roped into playing crazy golf, where the equipment was free to hire, as well as the obligatory hours, and cash, spent in the amusement arcade.
For the adults there was a very lively bingo scene – we won £45! – and a great bar.
Food at the Boathouse Restaurant was reasonably priced with mains of traditional pub grub coming in at around a tenner each.
Staff were everywhere, always with a big smile on their faces, and