Arctic rolling
Anil Dawar finds some surprising ways to explore the Finnish resort of Salla
THE puddle of light from the bike torch sways from side to side as I pedal up the icy track winding through the Arctic forests on the border between Finland and Russia. My bright beam catches the snow-shrouded candlestick fir trees lining our route and the deep tracks in which I am cycling furiously.
When the path starts going up, my thumb hits a button on the handlebar and I feel the electric motor on the mountain bike kick in, taking the strain out of the hill. We are just a few miles from the Finnish resort of Salla in Lapland where I am staying – but it feels like a million miles from anywhere.
The weather in Lapland is predictable. Winter will be cold and dark.
When I was in Salla at the start of December, the sun rose at about 10.30am and set less than four hours later. Most days the mercury was below -12C.
When conditions are that unsurprising, you can plan for them.
I am wearing my military grade Armadillo merino wool thermal socks, leggings, T-shirt and balaclava.
And on top of that I have snow trousers, two more tops, a thick ski jacket and two pairs of gloves.
Not once on our two-hour ride through the -15C temperatures did I feel uncomfortably cold. Nor did I fear losing control of the bike.
The ‘fat-boy’ tyres are specially designed to grip in snow and ice, and they did their job perfectly, as did the Tunturi bike’s disc brakes.
At the top of one hill we took a well-needed break and enjoyed the view of the floodlit ski slopes and forests.
Salla is a tiny resort in the Arctic Circle nearly 500 miles north of the Finnish capital Helsinki, with ski runs that are mainly suited to beginners and intermediates, plus a few more challenging slopes, including one for speed skiing.
I am staying at Salla Holiday Club where there are self-catering wooden cabins and apartments. My two-bed apartment has a fully-fitted kitchen, balcony with barbecue,