Luxury & lava
THE VIBE
Step inside the Grand Hotel Timeo and you find yourself transported to a world of such glamour and luxury that you might expect to see Gina Lollobrigida sipping a glass of something fizzy in the hotel bar.
It was the first hotel to be built in the hilltop town of Taormina, in the east of Sicily, and the location could not be more spectacular.
For a start you look out over the Ionian Sea, which is positively azure by day and glints under the most spectacular sunsets at night. Then you raise your eyes and there is Mount Etna, puffing away in the background.
The volcano is active and you are constantly aware of its brooding presence. And then if that were not enough it is, literally, right beside the city’s ancient Greek theatre, which dates from the third-century BC.
The town is, in fact, a paradise for archaeology lovers, and I was visiting with my support bubble, who are just that. He pointed out that the architecture of the town mirrors its history: ancient Greece, Rome and the influence of Islam, as well as churches dating to the 12th century, a Baroque fountain and much more.
THE STYLE
The Grand Hotel Timeo is part of the Belmond group, but there is nothing that suggests it’s part of a chain.
You enter into a cool stone reception area, brightly decorated with Sicilian ceramics, including the famous heads – a man and a woman shaped into colourful planters. They stem from a (rather gory) local story
and you see them everywhere – there are many examples in the hotel. The furniture throughout is individual, from the comfortable bar, the outside seating area and the bedrooms themselves.
We looked out over the spectacular bay; the furniture is elegant and traditional and there are brightly coloured paintings everywhere. Flowers and plants are dotted around the wooden floors. Busts of figures from ancient history to modern times line the corridors.
THE FOOD
Breakfast is served either inside or out (the weather can turn quite quickly), overlooking the sea. It’s quite a performance in itself: as well as ordering from a menu (I recommend the ricotta omelette) you queue for cheese, pastries and little pots of jam that are spooned into glass jars for you as you watch. Lunch can be eaten in the bar or outside, and Ristorante Timeo has traditional international and Sicilian fare.
But if you can, go to Otto Geleng, which is only open on Friday and Saturday and not at all some months in the off-season period. Its chef is Roberto Toro and it is one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants here.
It seats only 16 people, so book well in advance. There are several tasting menus (meat, fish, vegetarian) but you can order a la carte by flitting between them.
THE ACTIVITIES
Sitting and looking at the ocean could keep me occupied for hours, but in the grounds of the hotel there is a wonderful swimming pool, almost as azure as the sea. The gardens are a beautiful destination too, and there is also a wellness centre and a spa.
Beyond the hotel, Mount Etna beckons the adventurous: you can hike up it or ride over the top in a helicopter (and do remember – it’s still active).
The hotel can help you arrange Sicilian cooking classes or a tour of wineries, and be warned – the island’s wine is very moreish.
There is another Belmond hotel, the Villa Sant’andrea, and there is a private shuttle between the two if you like the idea of lunch on the beach.
But I must be honest – my favourite activity is shopping. There is a small pedestrian street that leads down from the hotel towards the main part of the town, and it hosts many small and appealing shops. My support bubble bought me two pairs of the most lovely sandals I have ever seen.
Mount Etna beckons the adventurous, you can hike up or fly over by helicopter