Dabbawal delivers a mixed bag of Indian morsels
Tucked down the busy High Bridge in Newcastle, Dabbawal has been on my ‘to visit’ list for an age. So after years of anticipation I was a bit stumped at what to choose from its menu.
And out of all its options, it turned out that a side dish proved to be a revelation.
Mushroom masala might not sound like much of a show stoppper, but it was one of the best Indian dishes I’ve ever had.
It was buttery and balanced well with tomatoes, onions and spices, and it tasted fresh and healthy. I’d go back for that alone.
The mixed Dabbawal grill passed the test, with salmon tikka joining the usual offering of chicken tikka, a lamb chop and a citrus prawn, but the seekh kebab was just too hot with chilli for me, and I missed having a bigger serving of the cooling yoghurt dip to accompany the meat.
Anyone picking from the tapas and starters is recommended to chose three and a side per person, with all around £4 to £5.
My first error was that it was all far too much (and took me beyond my budget) but I benefitted the next day when the mushroom dish and rice became an office lunch – it was even better. I also loved the smokey tomato dip and the tamarind sauce with our poppadoms.
My second mistake was choosing poorly for my other dish of bhel puri, a mix of puffed rice, gram flour sev – a little like a cracker – with tamarind, mint and pomegranate seeds.
It was an odd kind of sweet and spicy rubble, a bit like a sticky Bombay mix, which I’m glad I tried, but sad to say I didn’t like.
Meanwhile, the vegetable jhalfrezi on the other side of the table looked like it hit the spot given how quickly it disappeared.
Its two other main vegetarian meals include cheese, as does its kofta curry, but I suspect the kitchen could substitute the meat in one of its other main dishes should anyone fancy, and there is the masala dosa for anyone avoiding dairy. For a summery evening, most of the smaller dishes sounded too hefty or fried, which proved my sticking point, although perhaps I should have selected from the soup and salads section. Better idea still, it seems the place to take a group as you can order stack of small dishes to try. Booking looks a must at peak times and staff accommodate as many people as possible, with a sculpture used on one table of four to divide up the parties into two. On the down side, it felt just a bit too busy to relax. The menu is marked up for vegetarians and with dishes which contain nuts, gluten or dairy, which is good to see. Anyone who fancies a crash course in Indian street food can take up the Chef ’s Surprise at £22.50 per person. A full rundown of its menu and prices, along with those at its Jesmond venue, can be found online.