A little sunshine gives you bumper strawberry crop
Wimbledon starts on Monday, so what better fruit to talk about than strawberries? They’re easy to grow, as long as they have sun, shelter, and fertile, well-drained soil.
Don’t plant in areas that have previously grown potatoes, chrysanthemums, or tomatoes to avoid the disease verticillium wilt.
Buy named varieties, or use your own runners.
In poor soils grow in raised beds, or try containers, hanging baskets or grow bags.
Plant 35cm (14in) apart, trimming the roots lightly to 10cm (4in) if necessary, then spread them out in the hole.
Make sure that the base of the crown rests lightly on the surface.
Place the next row, 75cm (30in) away.
A fibre mat can be placed around each one, or you can plant through black polythene – red is supposed to give you a tastier, bigger crop but I haven’t tried it. Water in well. Water frequently at soil level, as water from overhead can rot the crown and fruit.
During the growing season, give plants a liquid tomato feed every seven to 14 days.
As fruits start to develop, tuck straw or matting underneath them to prevent them rotting on the soil. Net if birds are a problem.
After cropping has finished, remove the old leaves with secateurs or hand shears, and the straw mulch, fibre mat, or black polythene.
Strawberry plants should crop well for three years before being replaced – the plants’ runners should provide you with ample replacements.