Is this USA’s wackiest trip?
Sarah Marshall visits city with motto ‘Keep Austin Weird’
Being described as weird isn’t always considered a good thing. But when it comes to a place as innovative and eccentric as Austin, the term is worn like a badge of honour.
The Texan city’s unofficial motto ‘Keep Austin Weird’ appears on everything from T-shirts to bumper stickers, and it’s a mantra adhered to with gusto by the 1m population. Here, in this liberal and progressive enclave of one of America’s most conservative states, all degrees of quirkiness are celebrated. Independent cafes, restaurants and bars champion over dull chains, while bold entrepreneurs are encouraged to think differently.
It’s no surprise Virgin Atlantic chose Austin for its first new route since the pandemic, a new direct service from Heathrow.
The 10-hour flight is currently departing four times a week, but a surge in bookings means it will become daily from spring. So what awaits? All the familiar Texan cliches abound in its laid-back state capital: cowboys and ranches, heartfelt Southern hospitality, the aroma of barbecue and the sound of live music on almost every corner.
But there are surprises, too. Divided by the Colorado River, Austin is a place of hot springs, and islands that could pass for the Caribbean. Here are a few of the best ways to experience the city…
Take a breezy bus tour
To tick off all the main sights and escape the intense Texan sun (temperatures have been known to exceed 40C in August), book a guided (and air-conditioned) bus tour with AO Tours.
An itinerary focusing on the downtown district features the sombre but beautiful Texas State Cemetery (the final resting place of generals, governors and congressmen), and the handsome 92-metre State Capitol Building.
A two-and-a-half-hour panoramic tour costs from $51/£42. Visit aotoursaustin.com.
Kayak with micro bats
Take a kayak tour along the Colorado River. Paddle beneath Congress Avenue Bridge – also nicknamed Bat Bridge, in reference to the 1.5m tiny Mexican freetailed bats that live underneath it. Every evening between March and November, the bats emerge to feed, creating a spectacle in the sky. A two-hour tour costs from $59/£49. Visit austinkayaktours.com.
Learn the ropes on a ranch
John Wayne wannabes can try their hands at lassoing, tomahawk throwing and archery at the Lone Star Ranch – or go horse riding along trails criss-crossing the ranch’s 600-acres of ravines, meandering streams and open plains. A two-and-a-half cow class costs $150/£124. Visit lonestarranchtexas.com.
Savour the supersized dishes
You won’t go hungry in Austin, where the flavours are as big as the portions. Texas BBQ is almost a religion in these parts. Patient diners should head to Franklin, the no-frills street-side diner where people queue for up to three hours for a pulled pork sandwich and slice of pecan pie. Located in the historic East Side district, it’s only open until everything is sold out (usually around 2pm). The verdict? It’s well worth the (very long) wait. Pay around $14/£12 for a sandwich. Sharing a border with Mexico inevitably means the city’s culinary scene is heavily influenced by its neighbour. One of the best places to grab a bite on the go is Torchy’s, food trucks acclaimed for lip-tingling tacos. Pay around $7/£6 for a taco.
Tap your feet to terrific tunes
Austin could easily rival New Orleans or Nashville as America’s capital of live music: there are around 250 venues, with up to 100 shows in a single night.
Broken Spoke is among the most celebrated ‘honky-tonk’ country music bars, and has even welcomed legend Dolly Parton.
Stock up on boots and Stetsons
Allens Boots is a local institution ( just look for the giant red boot. Aisles are lined with authentic cowboy boots, hats and big buckled belts, each handmade and the real deal. The friendly staff will have you kitted out in no time.
How to plan your trip
Virginatlantic.com flies from Heathrow to Austin from £516 return. Go to visitaustin.org for details.