How to make preserved lemons
Ready to work some kitchen magic? With a little care and patience, you can add layers of flavour – and citrus sunshine – to your winter cooking.
The lemons
Meyer lemons, if you can find them, best approximate the Moroccan doqq or boussera varieties usually used for preserving. Meyer lemons’ thin skin and sweetness mean you can use the whole lemon – skin, flesh and all. If you can’t get hold of them, eureka lemons also work well, but be sure to use unwaxed, ideally organic, fruit.
The salt
Pure sea salt is the best choice for preserving. Avoid table salt as it often contains additives such as anti-caking agents that can affect the flavour.
The flavourings
Use whole spices rather than ground – cinnamon, cumin, coriander and star anise all work well – and add fresh woody herbs such as rosemary, bay or thyme... Whatever you fancy. How to cook with preserved lemons Most recipes call for the skin of the lemon only. To prepare them, fully quarter the preserved lemons, then run a sharp knife along the inside of each piece to remove the flesh and bitter pith, leaving just the tender skin. Slice, chop or crush the skin, as needed for your recipe. Depending on your taste for bitterness, you can use the whole lemon, flesh and all, for some recipes – especially in roasts or when whizzing into butters or marinades. Regardless of the preparation, always remove the pips.
How to make preserved lemons
Makes 1 large/a few smaller jars. Hands-on time 10 min, plus 4-5 weeks fermenting.
Specialist kit: 1 large jar (around 1.5 litres) or a few smaller jars, washed and sterilised. For how to sterilise jars, see deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ how-to-sterilise-jars
Ingredients:
• 12 small lemons (about 1kg) • 200g pure salt
• 8-10 mixed peppercorns
• 2 fresh bay leaves
• 1 chilli, halved (optional)
Method:
1. Juice 4 of the lemons and set the juice aside. Cut the rest of the lemons lengthways into quarters, stopping three quarters of the way through so the wedges are still attached at one end. 2. Sprinkle about 2 tsp salt onto the cut sides of each lemon, then layer in the jar(s) with the peppercorns, bay, chilli (if using) and any remaining salt. Press the lemons to help them release their juice, then pour in the reserved juice to cover. (If necessary, top up with filtered or boiled-and-cooled water to ensure the lemons are fully covered.) 3. Close the jar and set aside for 4-5 weeks in a cool spot, away from direct sunlight. Invert the jar every day for the first week or so to make sure the brine is evenly dispersed. The sealed jar(s) will keep for several months. Chill once opened and use within a couple of months.
Three ways to use
1. Condiments Finely chop preserved lemon and add to sauces such as mayo, pesto or vinaigrette, or anywhere you’d use fresh lemon zest/ juice – like gremolata or chermoula.
2. Roasts & braises
Add the whole fruit, if you like. The flavour works especially well
with lamb, chicken and fish.
3. Bakes
Use in sweet or savoury baking recipes that call for lemon zest, either instead of or alongside fresh zest. The saltiness helps to balance the sweetness of white chocolate or caramel especially well.