THE ORIENT EXCESS
ALEX HIBBERT samples Hong Kong’s glorious assault on the senses and enjoys the life of luxury at the opulent Kerry Hotel
PHILOSOPHER Aristotle said ‘adventure is worthwhile’, and it’s a sentiment which always struck a chord with me. Though I never fulfilled my childhood dream to become Indiana Jones, I’ve tried to travel and immerse myself in new cultures.
Of course being an explorer isn’t easy these days, but Cathay Pacific’s five-times-weekly direct flights from Manchester to Hong Kong on their new A350 aircraft make discovering new worlds all too tempting.
A mesmerising city, Hong Kong teems with life, nothing ever really closes and there’s always something to do. And it’s the perfect place to connect West to East – mixing Oriental and European sensibilities, culture, food and lifestyle. Like all the best places, it feels alien from the moment you arrive – as you take in the skyline, the neon and the smells on the trip from the airport to wherever you’re calling home for the duration of your stay.
From one moment to the next you could find yourself flying up and down its steep streets on a historic double-decker tram, sailing aboard a junk ship enjoying the spectacular harbour views, or trekking across sprawling country parks. Aromas dance through the air from unknown places, people never seem to stop moving. And despite being home to more than seven million people, Hong Kong isn’t so huge it feels overbearing.
Normally the hotel could be incidental to a trip discovering a truly unique place like this, but Shangri-La’s new Kerry Hotel is no ordinary hotel. Set on Kowloon’s vibrant waterfront at the heart of Hung Hom Bay, it delivers my first moment of pure wonder – when I walk into my room and see the breathtaking views of Hong Kong Island’s skyline.
The hotel is opulence defined. Rooms are grand but modern, offering all the amenities you could care for on a city-break, while its lounge ‘The Club’ offers guests a luxury breakfast spread to stock up for a busy day, or a place to unwind after a long day with a cocktail and some snacks. And it’s possibly the only hotel I’ve ever stayed which has a gym so luxurious it actually made me want to work out.
If you can tear yourself away from the hotel, a good place to start exploring Hong Kong is up at Victoria Peak, the highest point on Hong Kong Island – it offers 360-degree views of the island and views of the harbour vista as you look down and across to Kowloon.
It’s fun to simply pick a spot and start wandering – and there’s nowhere better to get lost than in Hong Kong’s Old Town, one of the oldest yet trendiest districts in the city. Here hipster joints merge with historic streets and sights, residents hang washing out on balconies perched just above artisan coffee joints. Take an organised tour by Walk in Hong Kong (walkin.hk) – the company’s knowledgeable guides offer a fascinating insight into the city’s history and its people. While exploring the Old Town, be sure to pop into Po’s Atelier, an uber-chic bakery which mixes traditional techniques and modern décor, and its Cafe Deadend eatery just behind for a steaming hot chocolate.
Funky neighbourhood Poho – which you’ll know from the mass of streets and buildings with names starting with ‘Po’- is a cluster of cafes, boutiques and galleries that act as a hotspot for Hong Kong’s hipsters. There are plenty of places to sample the city’s worldleading cuisine and cocktails here.
One standout is the otherworldly Iron Fairies (facebook.com/TheIronFairiesHongKong), where thousands of petrified butterflies line the ceiling and revellers are treated to a live jazz