A tale of two cities
ALEX HIBBERT finds an oasis of calm in the midst of the hustle and bustle of Japan’s busiest destinations
AFTER travelling around one of the most exotic places you’ve ever been,
it’s unusual the memories which shine brightest are of a resort that was home for only a handful of nights.
But after two weeks spent trekking across Japan, my time spent at the Hoshinoya resorts in two of its major cities – Tokyo and Kyoto – is still burning vividly in my brain.
Superlative in every sense, a stay at the luxurious Hoshinoya properties allows travellers the chance to truly immerse themselves in the country’s incredible culture.
First to Tokyo, alighting at the city’s central station, I take the short walk past amassed skyscrapers to the Otemachi district. Here, amongst the neat crowds of suited businessmen and women, I pass through a doorway, and am immediately transported into another world.
Wood and the sweet smell of Japanese fauna greet me first, before a kimono-clad host with a warm smile approaches and immediately requests I hand over my shoes.
In a matter of seconds I have left the hustle and bustle of a city which is home to 35 million people, very far behind, and am siting on the floor, shoeless, sipping warm Japanese tea. Hoshinoya Tokyo is a ‘tower ryokan’, a traditional-style hotel that offers guests tatami mat floors, décor brimming with bamboo and Japanese wood, and shoji paper sliding doors.
An oasis of calm amidst the chaos of the city outside, from the moment you step in, serenity descends. Yet, being based between Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace, its location couldn’t be more convenient for forays into the city.
Guests are given complimentary kimonos, which can be worn in their room and around the hotel. Each floor of the hotel has a Ochanoma lounge, which offers a space to relax, drink some tea and sample fresh local delicacies.
The hotel also organises daily activities, including traditional Japanese magic shows, deep breathing exercises to help you get a good night’s sleep, and sake tasting. And after a long day spent exploring Tokyo, you can soak in the top floor hot spring bath while staring up at the night sky.
Days later, a little more ragged from my adventures in the Far East, I arrive in Kyoto.
First, there’s a quick train journey eight kilometres west of the city centre to Arashiyama station.
From there it’s a short walk to the Togetsuky Bridge where, on a small jetty, kimono-clad staff with welcoming smiles usher me onto a glistening black water taxi.
We cast off, sailing past waving Japanese boatmen punting longboats through the clear water of the Katsura River, and leave the hubbub of Kyoto behind as we sail past the verdant green slopes of the surrounding mountainsides.
At the water’s end, I alight on a small jetty, and am greeted by more friendly faces welcoming me to the Hoshinoya Kyoto’s extensive grounds, its paths lined with cedars and cherry blossoms. There’s a salon and bar which serves coffee and teas by day, and an extensive whiskey list at night; there’s a water garden (and a hidden one); there’s a library and lounge space, and a floating tearoom where guests can relax and enjoy the beautiful river scenery.
Rooms and suites are cosy and clean, with luxurious beds and views out onto the river or into the woods around the resort. Wherever you are in the property you feel close to nature, a feeling that taps into Kyoto’s position nestled in amongst the mountains. Like in Tokyo, guests are offered the chance to take part in daily activities, such as tea drinking sessions and a traditional incense burning ceremony. Both resorts offer superlative dining options, using traditional Japanese ingredients and dishes updated with modern cooking techniques.
In Tokyo, award-winning executive chef Noriyuku Hamada’s Nippon cuisine uses French techniques to produce complex and rewarding dishes with Japanese ingredients and seasoning. Focusing on fish and vegetables, dishes such as ‘Out of the Blue’ and ‘Five Flavours of Delight’ – five small canapés all served at different temperatures – take diners on a taste journey from sour to umami.
Dinner in Kyoto comes in a