RAISE A GLASS
THOSE of you with long memories might recall that months ago my clumsiness got the better of me at a Wines of Australia tasting. Within minutes of arriving I broke my phone and I later left my tasting notes on the train. I promised to bring you some Australian wines another time; this is that time.
You might be familiar with the most widely planted varieties in Australia – shiraz, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and merlot – which account for almost 70% of the vines. There has been a steady increase in the planting of alternative grape varieties and here are five you can seek out.
Berton Vineyards Moscato Frizzante Metal Label 2015 (£10.50, or £9.50 if you buy two, at wine.next.co.uk, or £31.47 for three at Amazon, 7% abv):
This is such a pretty white, sweet and delicate with a slight fizz that tickles the palate. It would be a perfect outdoor wine if we get an Indian summer, to enjoy with a bowl of sorbet or a fruit flan, or on its own. It has aromas of lychee, orange blossom and a hint of ginger, and a mystery of musky perfume.
Chalmers Vermentino 2014 (RRP £17.50, greatwestern wine.co.uk, qwines.co.uk, thefinewinecompany.co.uk, 12% abv): The Chalmers family was
one of the first to plant alternative varieties and is at the forefront of developing them even further. Chalmers produced the first Australian vermentino in 2004 and I’m glad they did. This white has a clean, fresh, floral nose with hints of lemon. To taste it has stone fruits, citrus, apple, and a delicate creaminess.
De Bortoli Deen Vat Riverina Durif 2014 (£7.99, brayvalley wines.co.uk, 14.5% abv):
The durif grape is also known as petite syrah and this red wine is deep and intense, not quite brooding, but getting there. The wine has aromas of plums, bramble fruits and liquorice with chocolate teasing in the background. Those same notes can be found when you taste it.
Australia Felix Swan Hill Victoria Shiraz-Sagrantino 2016 (£8.95, thewinesociety. com, 14% abv):
An easydrinking red, but complex too. Picture the scene. My nephew-in-law outside in the rain tending his day-long slow-barbecued ribs and a wonderful beef brisket; my niece and I watching him from the warm, sipping this wine. When the meat was served, this wine was a perfect match. It has blackberry and plum notes, a flash of spice, a chirrup of cherry, and an edge of savoury.
First Drop The Big Blind Nebbiolo Barbera 2012 (RRP £20.99, oldbutcherswinecellar. co.uk, shop.vinoteca.co.uk, thesecretcellar.co.uk and others, 14%abv):
We also had a glass of this with the brisket. The nebbiola (65%) and barbera wines were aged in oak, some French new oak too, and mature on the lees for 15 months before blended. The wine has a sweet spice on the nose, which mingled with the barbecue spices; there’s vanilla, with a playfulness of mocha; it is a wow of red fruit and cherry.
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