The Chronicle

Cooking up a storm... in the lap of luxury

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NIGELLA is back. Prepare for dads to once again suddenly take an interest in cooking, the Gogglebox viewers to give their comical takes on her dishes, and for a whole heap of weird ingredient­s to suddenly sell out.

Not only that, but expect many of her designer kitchen gadgets to start appearing on yummy mummies’ Christmas lists and on counters in well-to-do homes. A seethrough toaster, anyone?

Nigella’s always been at the top of the aspiration­al tree – her home festooned with thousands of fairy lights and looking like a high-end interiors catalogue, her hair impossibly shiny and coiffed, that mellifluou­s voice.

It all screams luxury and expense. Which could be why this latest series doesn’t sit well with this viewer.

Even the series title and opening credits, as we see her dressing two of the enormous

NIGELLA: AT MY TABLE BBC2, 8.30pm

tables in her home with flowers and candles, rankles – possibly because our home isn’t big enough to even fit one. Or when she goes to one of her cavernous pantries to show off her “chilli shelf”, then another to point out her unused electric crepe maker, or curls up in a vintage leather armchair while wearing a silk dressing gown.

It all feels ridiculous­ly opulent and out of touch.

Even the food can feel somewhat inaccessib­le, like her first dish of Turkish eggs.

A poached egg sitting on garlic yoghurt, with a butter sauce made using an unheard-of Turkish spice, served with fresh dill and toasted sourdough.

Can’t see anyone getting those ingredient­s from the corner shop and whipping that up with a hangover.

Maybe we’re just jealous. Or maybe we’re well aware thousands of people are relying on food banks or have a weekly budget that wouldn’t buy one of her pan lids.

Still, those shoestring fries and chocolate brownies do look seriously delicious…

 ??  ?? Nigella Lawson with one of her dishes from her latest series
Nigella Lawson with one of her dishes from her latest series

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