1964...oh, what a year that was!
WHAT’S IT LIKE?
Its blink-and-you-missit position on Low Fell’s main road sees its doorway sandwiched between an Indian tandoori and a Chinese takeaway. Make it up the steep and narrow flight of stairs and it opens out into a small bar area which, despite its size, is given an airy look by its light decor and pale wooden floorboards and bar.
My guest and I were welcomed by background music and a friendly waitress - the only member of staff we saw on our mid-week visit in February who, coats dispensed to the coat-rack, showed us to a table in the adjoining dining space and produced two menus.
There was just two other diners in when we arrived then a party of four, seemingly regulars, turned up during the course of our meal. In a nice touch, the restaurant walls are adorned with old images of Low Fell and stories of its proud local history which make interesting reading once you’ve finished the menu.
WHAT WE HAD FOR STARTERS
Described as a fine dining restaurant - albeit a small family-run affair - the menu didn’t disappoint. We chose from a special offer of two courses for £17.95 and three for £20.95, which saved a good few pounds, and were told that some of the portions may be smaller than on the main.
Having both chosen the same starter, which isn’t ideal for review purposes but neither of us would give in, our dishes of pigs’ cheeks with truffle mash, carrot and jus might have looked small but they were huge on flavour.
The deep flavours in the fall-apart meat and the gravy were matched by a wonderful truffle mash and the combination was delicious. My guest wolfed his down but this is food to be savoured.
HOW WAS THE MAIN COURSE?
Considering we were expecting smallish portions, we were amazed by the size of our main courses and I can only think that the chef got carried away in assembling dishes that arrived like works of art. I’d chosen beef blade - slow-cooked like the pork - and my guest picked roast chicken supreme. Ask for the latter in most restaurants and you’d know what to expect but both mains here were full of surprises.
There’s nothing pretentious about the menu - I think I spotted just a couple of mentions of ‘jus’ - but the descriptions don’t really do justice to
the food. The butternut squash and the sage with the chicken dish came as purees in bursts of yellow swirls around the plate with dots of green like a mad abstract artwork. It looked and tasted great.
The ‘horseradish’ listed among the accompaniments to my beef was actually a surprise deep-fried parcel - looking like a Scotch egg - balanced on top of the dish which broke open to reveal a subtle creamy horseradish interior. Quite how you make horseradish subtle I don’t know but it was.
Each ingredient of my dish, from the roast carrot to another excellent mash and gravy, added another distinct layer of flavour.
In each of my meat-heavy choices these could have been overpowering but it’s like the balance is carefully controlled - and mastered - just in time. It seems you really can’t have too much of a good thing.
AND DESSERTS?
We were on a roll so decided to go full-out and see what we’d get next. The result was again as much a feast for the eyes. I picked the sticky stout pudding with butterscotch sauce and salted caramel ice cream and it was every bit as good as it sounds: an imaginative combination in which the saltiness of the ice cream countered the cloying sweetness of butterscotch. The stout was not obvious but maybe my tastebuds were just tiring. Because I had ordered my guest’s first choice for myself, he this time chose the creme brulee and was glad he had. It came with apple puree and candied pecans plus a circle of gingerbread which looked liked a large biscuit. He said it speaks for itself.
COST
Our total bill, including a large glass of Montepulciano for £4.50 and a bottle of Guinness Hop House 13 beer (£4.50), came to £53. The restaurant also does Sunday lunch and is currently offering a Valentine’s Day menu.
OVERALL
If you go here once, you’re likely to keep going back. It’s an asset for Low Fell and if it’s pricier than other restaurants in the area then so it should be. It’s superior food and I’d love to see 1964 do a taster menu or perhaps a signature dish. The restaurant website reveals the head chef Kyle Bowman who named his restaurant after the year of his parents’ births - is already an award-winner and you can’t help but think that he will outgrow the small premises in the future. Let’s hope he doesn’t spread his wings too far afield. Three stars is very good in my book but this has to be four, for excellent; even bordering on an outstanding five.