BEAUTIFUL BUENOS AIRES
A new direct low-cost flight route means it’s now easier and cheaper to reach South America. SARAH MARSHALL explores Argentina’s exuberant capital
IT is famous for tango, steak and a certain football player.
Often referred to as the Paris of South America, Buenos Aires has always enjoyed close links with Europe. Waves of Italian immigrants populated the port city in the 19th and 20th centuries and much of its resplendent architecture echoes trends from this side of the Atlantic.
Now, connections are even closer, with the launch of the continent’s first direct low-cost flight service from Norwegian, linking the Argentinian capital with London.
Blighted by dictatorships, spiralling inflation and angry protests, the city bears a colourful past. But nothing has ever managed to dampen its spirit, expressed through impassioned tango clinches, riotous football crowds and the poetic fantasies of literary greats.
As if any excuse is needed, here are seven reasons to visit Latin America’s most enchanting city.
1 The buildings are beyond
beautiful. Much of Buenos Aires’ romance is cemented in its belle epoque architecture, intended to emulate the fashionable grandeur of Paris.
One of the finest examples is Teatro Colon in the city’s downtown, inaugurated in 1908. Muses from Greek mythology dance around a skylight in the eye-popping entrance, and the Golden Hall, modelled on Versailles, glints with 22-carat gold leaf. Ornate occasionally spills into ostentatious, but nonetheless, it’s a glamorous window on the past.
Guided 50-minute tours take place every day except Saturdays. Or experience acoustics ranked amongst the best in the world by attending an opera or classical music concert. Check their Facebook page for news of free events from March to December.
Although far from the action, seats in ‘the hen house’ (the Gods) have the best acoustics. Expect to pay from £2 for a ticket.
2
Evita made her mark here. The First Lady Of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952, Eva Peron, or Evita, captured the hearts of working class socialists and is still a symbol of the country’s class divide.
A museum, Museo Evita in Palermo, charts her life history and stylish wardrobe, and her final resting place is part of the most visited ‘attraction’ in the city.
Wild legends lurk in the shadows of Recoleta Cemetery, a labyrinth of grand graves popular with street photographers and story hunters.
Tucked discreetly between marble mausoleums housing wealthier bodies, Peron was ironically laid here alongside her worst enemies – a decision made during the 1976 military dictatorship.
Her sombre, simple epitaph is easy to miss, but follow the crowds and you can’t go wrong.
3 It’s the birthplace of tango.
Tango is synonymous with Buenos Aires. Although expensive and filled with foreigners, a dinner and show is the best way to see the pros in action.
One of the most dramatic is at Esquina Carlos Gardel in CABA, opposite an art deco shopping centre, which was once the city market.
The food is surprisingly decent, but it’s the performances that really count; svelte, agile dancers flick their legs like jackknives and, gaze fixed, slide into an electrifying embrace. It’s hard to imagine anything more sensual.
But, given its humble origins, some of the best displays can still be seen on the city’s streets. Every day, from around lunchtime until 6pm, tango dancers can be found in San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego.
If you want a front row seat, come during the week when there are fewer people – but bring enough change to leave tips.
4 Carnivores will be in their
element. Steak is undoubtedly Buenos Aires’ culinary delight, and competition is fierce for the best parilla (grill). Don Julio, in Palermo Viejo, is undoubtedly a classic, enjoying a resurgence of interest last year when it was ranked 13th of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America. It also boasts Argentina’s biggest wine cellar, with 13,000 bottles.
A few streets away, competitor La Cabrera also serves quality, marbled, tender meats.
The rib eye (around £20) is recommended but go easy on ordering sides, as meats are accompanied by a myriad of mini sauces, purées and nibbles. Arrive before the restaurant opens from 6.30pm until 8pm for a 40% discount on the bill.
5 Outsiders have always been
welcome. There are 48 neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, but La Boca, where Italian immigrants settled from 1830, considers itself a republic.
It’s home to the raucous Boca Juniors stadium ‘Bombonera’, where Maradona rose to fame, and colorful tourist magnet Caminito, a street of brightly painted tenement houses now selling ‘Diez’ football shirts (the position played by ‘the hand of God’ and current star Messi), Gauchoinspired souvenirs and chunky steaks. Originally decorated by artist Benito Martin, who wanted ‘to bring art to the streets’, the row of buildings was named after a famous tango song. Yes, it’s tacky and busy – visit after midday to avoid the
cruise-ship crowds – but its scruffy charm is irresistible.
Most modern day portenos have Italian roots, celebrated in restaurants and cafés around the city. One of the most visually impressive is Napoles in San Telmo, a cavernous antique store, bar and restaurant, where diners sit on barber stools set amidst clothes rails, Maserati cars and classical sculptures.
6 Portenos revel in their romantic past. Once owned by rich families, San Telmo’s narrow ‘sausage’ houses fell into the hands of poorer immigrants when an outbreak of yellow fever caused the wealthy set to move north.
It was in these tiled courtyards that tango was born, a close and sensual dance banned in public places until the mid-19th century. Years later, it was popularised by singer Carlos Gardel.
One of the best remaining examples of these houses is El Patio del Tiempo in Pasaje de la Defensa, where bric-a-brac stores fill the ground floor, and bohemian cafés and wine bars drift along the upper level. Every Sunday, a craft market extends 1.4km from Plaza de Mayo along Defensa to Plaza Dorrego with local artists peddling avantgarde jewellery, trendy leather purses and towers of mate gourds. Head into the covered wrought iron Mercado de San Telmo for a fresh empanada, where El Hornero sells oven-baked pies for £1 each.
7 There’s a seriously cool crowd
in town. A sprawling residential area seized upon by artists and creatives, Palermo is the place to truly live like a modern day porteno.
The best bars, independent boutiques and restaurants cluster around Palermo Soho, which has also become an open-air art gallery for accomplished street art.
The scene exploded in 2001, at the height of Argentina’s financial crisis, and some of the most striking pieces – by artists like BA Paste Up and Nasepop – can be found in the area around Jorge Luis Borges Street. You can download a broader map of Buenos Aires graffiti at streetartfactory.eu/en.
This is also the city’s greenest area, inspired partly by London’s Hyde Park, with tree-lined parks, decorative rose gardens and a swan-filled lake perfect for pedalos.
Operating daily, the Palermo Through The Senses bike tour covers the key sights, including a statue by Rodin and a polo stadium where gauchos once played with a live duck. Book at any of the local tourism kiosks in the park, which also offer free water and phone charging stations.