The Chronicle

Escape plans

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castle’s soaring towers and `witch’s hat’-shaped turrets are said to have inspired Charles Perrault to write the story of The Sleeping Beauty.

Apart from the chateaux tour, most of our forays ashore took place in the afternoons, a good thing as it allowed plenty of time to gaze out of my cabin’s floor-toceiling windows – or sit out on its balcony – and watch the Loire’s olive green waters roll by.

I laughed at the sight of cream cows paddling in the river and gazing up in comical astonishme­nt as we came drifting by, and relished the graceful swoops of grey heron fishing from the trees. There was more enjoyment to be had before and after each day’s sightseein­g.

Lunch and dinner – taken at white-clothed tables in Loire Princess’s well-presented restaurant – were invariably delicious, featuring some fine soups, excellent roasts, classic French treats like crepes Suzette, and lashings of white, red or rosé wine (which, along with most bar drinks and coffees, were included in the cruise price).

On such a multilingu­al boat, populated largely by French and German passengers, a little alcohol could provide a useful social stimulant.

Fortunatel­y I didn’t need one, as I’d been seated with four very friendly Philadelph­ians.

They adopted me as part of their `gang’ and we quickly became pals with the other English speakers on board – couples from Australia and New Zealand – so I had a far more convivial cruise than I’d expected, with many jolly pre- and post-dinner gatherings in the boat’s richly decorated main lounge.

And even if I hadn’t been lucky enough to enjoy such good company, Loire Princess’ lively young crew go out of their way to help guests feel at home and dissolve language barriers with an amusing – largely mimed – crew show, and very visual entertainm­ent based on picture or music quizzes. All but the most gregarious­ly challenged should have a good time on here.

Any downsides? I found little to quibble at, and passengers I spoke to thought that, with drinks and the full-day three Chateaux tour included, and other shore tours priced at an affordable €40 to €50 a head, the trip was value for money.

But we would have welcomed more free time on the tours, as our guide on the last three, though very knowledgea­ble, went into too much detail, leaving passengers – most of whom were well over 60 and in some cases in their 80s – standing about for far too long.

And a small niggle was that, while the huge-windowed cabins were an absolute joy for river-viewing, they were not screened from the view of passers-by when the boat was moored up, so that one sometimes had to dress in semi-darkness, with the main drapes pulled.

One-way tinted glass, or simply diaphanous curtains, would be helpful here.After all, unlike the ingenious designers of that monstrous spider in Nantes, I really don’t want to frighten the locals…

 ??  ?? Villandry Chateau’s elegant gardens
Villandry Chateau’s elegant gardens
 ??  ?? Luxury: A salon on board the Loire Princess
Luxury: A salon on board the Loire Princess

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