Don’t try to spare your blushes
SIX INDUSTRY PROS TELL KATIE WRIGHT WHY CONTOURING IS OUT AND BLUSHER IS IN WHEN IT COMES TO ENHANCING YOUR CHEEKS
AS a beauty editor, I’ve been interviewing make-up artists for years and I’m always keen to find out which of-the-moment beauty trends they’re keen to see the back of.
Whenever I ask that question, there’s one answer I hear far more than any other; contouring.
“Contouring is corrective make-up, used to reshape and restructure the face, and was never intended for everyday use,” explains Sascha Jackson, UK lead pro-artist at Stila.
She’s talking about the technique that has been popularised in recent years by the likes of Kim Kardashian, who started her KKW Beauty empire with cream contour sticks that combined dark and light shades, designed to supposedly deliver razor-sharp cheekbones.
“Hollywood has been contouring for decades. Marilyn Monroe’s make-up artist used to contour her nose to make it smaller, Audrey Hepburn contoured her lips quite considerably to make them fuller,” says Sisley make-up artist Tania Grier.
“The difference is that was on the big screen, with clever lighting, we had no idea.”
Lord & Berry ambassador Abbi-Rose Crook warns: “Unless you know exactly where to place the products and blend properly, the shadowing can look false and obvious in daylight.”
It’s time, make-up artists say, to stop smearing muddy streaks onto your face and instead, embrace the gentle art of blush and shimmer.
Here, six beauty experts explain how to enhance your features the subtle way...
1. BRUSH ON BRONZER
“WE are seeing a shift towards soft contouring, which is the use of a bronzer as opposed to foundations etc.
“Dr. Hauschka BronzingPowder is a great alterntive, giving a translucent bronzed effect, whilst also nourishing the skin,” says Karim Sattar, Dr. Hauschka international make-up artist.
2. FRAME YOUR FACE
“BLUSH – the secret weapon of every make up artist – can be used to help women balance their facial features and bring them into harmony,” Karim continues.
“Applying an extended brush stroke onto the cheekbone can help to frame the facial features.”
3. PUT AWAY THE POWDER
“BLUSHER is making its revival this year with new products on the market, like gel and jelly blushers, which act as hybrid formulations to melt into the skin,” says Vianney Leigh, Models Own head of artistry and product innovation.
“These products are best applied with fingers. Choose shades to match your lip colour, taking the hard work out of deciding what shade will look best for your skin type.”
4. DON’T GO TOO LOW
“FOR blush, my rule is to never have it lower than the nostrils, as it tends to pull the face down rather than lift it,” advises Rose-Marie Swift, make-up artist and founder of RMS Beauty.
“Always apply highlighters to elevated areas of the face and NOT the end of your nose.”
5. SCULPT WITH SUBTLETY
“I LOVE to softly sculpt the skin using cream textures,” says Sascha. “Using my fingertips, I press the cream blusher onto the apples of the cheek which gives that natural ‘flushed’ look. Then, using a fluffy brush, I sweep the highlighter along the top of the cheekbone, to capture the light and give the illusion of a model-worthy bone structure.”
6. STROBING’S IN STYLE
“STROBING is the new updated version of highlighting, which focuses solely on the highlight to define the face, and not on contouring,” says Abbi-Rose.
“Cream or liquid products are best, so they blend seamlessly into the skin, rather than looking like they are sitting on top of it.
“Highlight should have a hint of a sheen and almost be the colour of your skin. Paler skin should aim for those with a slight pink tone, and those with dark skin, a more golden tone.”
7. DON’T OVERDO SHIMMER
“FOR highlighting, it’s better to ‘enhance’ the skin, rather than go shimmer crazy,” advises Tania. “With the summer heat, stay away from highlighters that are too creamy or oily. Pop it on the bridge of the nose, cheekbones and centre of the chin, then blend in with your fingers.”
8. PICK A PEACH
“SEVENTY percent of the time, I veer towards a peachy tone, adapting the shade for the skin tone,” Tania adds. “Pinks are great too, but can go ‘hot’ on the cheeks if you choose the wrong shade, so look for blushers that have the right mix of each. Your perfect shade will be the one that makes you look healthier than you did before you applied it!”