Like getting to know an old pal all over again
BARBARA HODGSON TAKES A STEP BACK INTO HER PAST - AND IS TRANSPORTED TO HAPPY TIMES
A WEEK might be a long time in politics but things change pretty swiftly in the culinary world and Newcastle is no exception with new restaurants opening at the drop of a chef’s toque.
But then, on the flip side, we have Uno’s Trattoria which has been a fixture since 1989 and, firmly ticking the traditional Italian box, is rightly proud of having managed to stay the course.
It’s such a fixture in fact it’s easy to forget it’s there and it was only by spotting its basement lights in Sandhill - on making my way down to Newcastle Quayside - that I was transported back to girls’ nights out there in its early days.
Back then it became a regular haunt for us, especially as we often found that staff left something off the bill; even forgetting to charge for our wine one night which did trouble our conscience until we realised it meant we could afford another blue lagoon along at Offshores. Happy days.
So, it was in nostalgic mood my guest and I decided to revisit it and we went down the stairs and into, well, the eighties.
I don’t doubt it’s undergone redecoration over the years but this is our Uno’s of old. Familiar sights and sounds - the bar area, brick walls, check tablecloths, chalk boards, bustle and buzz brought memories tumbling back.
And, yes, the autograph wall - where we used to check for latest Newcastle United signings - is still prominent.
Even the sepia lighting suited the mood as we realised when we found ourselves soon seated, under an amber glow, in the main restaurant whose intimate size is an illusion as it leads off into two additional dining areas.
Gone are the days of blue lagoons but I did spot a current favourite on the cocktail menu - a negroni. Being far fussier than of old, I often find ordering this Italian classic can prove a hit and miss affair but this one was the real deal.
The food menu had all the staples and special offers - you would expect from an Italian. We decided to go for the early evening menu, served Mondays to Thursdays, of two courses for £10.95 or three for £13.95.
With barely 10 minutes to spare before its 7.30pm cut-off point, we tried to rush but our waiter was perfectly relaxed about the whole thing and there was no pressure.
This worked both ways as, having made our decisions, we then faced a bit of a wait but didn’t mind a bit and waved aside the waiter’s apologies that orders had banked up a bit.
It gave me time to finish my cocktail before my starter of salmon and lemon zest fishcakes arrived: two of them which turned out to be properly homemade with a good ratio of fish. If I’m being picky I would have liked a bit
more lemon.
My guest’s choice of meatballs in a Napoli sauce had a similar authentically home-made appearance and taste and they came served with toasted garlic ciabatta. Again two were just enough and he said he would order this again.
My main course proved a real surprise and the highlight of the meal. When I’d spotted salmon fillet in a tomato and Pernod sauce among the main choices I hardly stopped to read the rest of the dish - which turned out to be mussels.
And there were so many of them - I did a quick count of around 25 - that they made up the bulk of the meal: remarkable value on a special-offer deal. And there was a side plate of vegetables too, which definitely didn’t get a mention on the menu.
My good-size piece of salmon was nicely-cooked and the sauce was delicious with a Bouillabaisse-type depth and range of flavour. It should be served with bread to soak it up but I didn’t think to ask at the time, probably because it was so filling.
Among the main choices was also an option of any pizza or pasta so my guest went for his favourite: the folded calzone - which was also a substantial size.
While he enjoyed it, he didn’t rave over it: his stodge palate having been recently ruined, I suspect, by a new calzone experience at an “artisan” Italian restaurant which had used a different kind of ham (more flaky apparently). But he certainly didn’t leave any. Neither of us really had room for a dessert but, in the interests of a review, decided to order one to share. The early evening offer contained two options: sticky toffee pudding and chocolate fudge cake, both with vanilla ice cream.
We picked the former - which was every bit as sweet and indulgent as you’d imagine - but it was too much and nearly finished us off.
Besides bottled beers and ciders, there is a decent choice on draught, the most expensive being Moretti at £4.40 a pint (which my guest chose) and Fosters, John Smith and Strongbow Dark Fruit.
My Negroni was £7.50 and a 175ml glass of house red (me again) was £4.40.
Our total bill for two, including two coffees, came to £44.95. There might not have been anything accidentally left off this time but we had no complaints about value.
Uno’s is like a comfort blanket in a changing world. During the course of our Monday night visit it was pleasantly busy with a steady trickle of customers coming and going and service was efficient and very friendly.
While it has various offers available, it’s the restaurant’s traditional charms which make it work so well. No wonder our visit felt like being reacquainted with an old friend.