If you can’t eat them...
DAVID RAVEN takes a foodie tour of Malaga and tastes life off the tourist trail
TELL people you’re off for a short break in Spain and they usually assume it’s a cheap, boozy getaway full of beers, brown sauce and English breakfasts. And, admittedly, my trips to the ex-pat haven had always previously mirrored that stereotype.
Visits to Salou, Magaluf, Barcelona, Madrid, Ibiza and Tenerife were either lads’ holidays or trips away for the football.
So when I was given the chance to explore ‘authentic Spain’ like a local by Devour Tours, it was an offer I couldn’t refuse.
Our short break was to Malaga, a charming port city on the Costa del Sol which is known for its sandy beaches and huge hotels.
We were staying at the Molina Lario, a tidy four-star hotel in the shadow of Malaga cathedral with a swanky rooftop bar boasting a modest pool and spectacular views across the bay and the city.
Malaga sits on the southern coast of Spain and as a result temperatures largely remained at a solid 28°C.
It was originally founded as a fishing village in around 800BC and its history is a cultural mixing pot thanks to its previous Roman, German and Arabic rule.
Malaga harbour was built in the 17th century and since then the city has enjoyed an economic boom and, more recently, a reputation as a tourism hotspot for Spaniards.
Our first stop was at the Wendy Gamba and KGB restaurant, where I sampled some delicious tapas.
We enjoyed a two-part lunch in this dual restaurant concept where the rich, juicy, oxtail burger was out of this world. Forget your beans, bacon and sausages.
Our Tapas Like A Local tour began at Antigua Casa de Guardia, a wooden cask bar popular with locals where staff serve you with a smile.
This unique bar, down a side street, has very few tourists so it’s a must if you want to sample the authentic Spanish culture.
Malaga wines are served straight from the barrels and the price is chalked up in front of you on the bar. Staff served us Banderilla de Atún, Seco Trasañejo Wine and Pajarete wine.
You’ll find each has a unique woody quality about them and you soon notice their strength when you wander back out into the sunshine.
We then headed to La Mallorquina, a shop where we were able to try some of the nicest home-grown produce.
The mojama – cured tuna – was my personal favourite, like a softer, thicker version of cured ham but with a sea salt aftertaste.
Legs of the finest cured Iberian ham adorn the walls of this small shop, which is packed full of locals.
We were also able to sample some of the queso payoyo goat’s cheese and sobrasada cured pork sausage, washed down with some vino verdejo.
Just a short walk down the main street was Dbandera, where we were given samples of some of the finest Iberian ham available.
The difference between the cheapest and the most expensive was huge, and the fat from the dearest one would just melt in your fingers.
After washing this down with some vino tinto ribera del duero, we had a short break before making our way to our next restaurant.
Meson Antonio is a small but tidy restaurant down another side alley that’s very popular with local families.
We started off with some Malaga salad which featured potatoes, orange, onions and fish lightly sprinkled with some olive oil. Next up was bunchones – tasty fried white fish along with some dry, but lovely, Iberian ham croquettes. For dessert we tried a tocino de cielo (egg custard) which was paired with either Spanish red or white wine. It was now 9pm and the place was just beginning to come alive. Bursting with seafood, Iberian ham and red wine, we headed to the Plaza de la Constitución to do some people-watching. Malaga families, many with young children, were out walking the streets after midnight, then the older ones would head to the nightclubs to salsa into the early hours.
Next day, nursing some sore heads, we headed to Café Central for a traditional Malaga breakfast at the start of our Foodie Feast Walking Tour.
We had a pitufo con tomate – a