Great British rake off
Your lawns need a little extra love as temperatures drop – so save yourself a heap of work come spring by taking these easy steps
OUR lawns have taken a real beating this year. A freezing winter was followed by a scorching summer heatwave then a dripping wet autumn. Now winter is approaching again and, with temperatures falling, our lawns need a bit of extra TLC to help them thrive.
Never forget your lawn is there and hope for the best come spring. Taking a few easy steps now will make a real difference when you actually want to be outside again.
Begin by removing garden furniture or children’s play items to ensure the grass is not flattened and starved of sunlight for weeks on end.
It’s a good excuse to bring furniture inside or under cover to protect it from tarnishing at this time of year. It also provides the opportunity to give it a decent clean with a jet wash.
Flattening and compaction can also be caused by too many people walking over your grass when it’s sodden. So avoid this wherever possible or think about getting some stepping stones.
Next, rake leaves and debris. A few leaves are fine, as they will be pulled into the ground by worms, but a large amount can cause rotting, disease and a lack of light, which kills grass.
Springbok lawn rakes are best for the job, rather than a flat head, as they cause less damage and are easier to use.
Moss can become a big problem over winter, as a lack of sunlight plus the damp conditions can cause it to replace damaged grass.
The next step is scarifying, which is essentially heavy raking with a spring-tine rake.
This will remove thatch – the fine layer of old grass, dead moss and debris that gets compacted between blades and prevents water and fertiliser reaching the earth below.
You need to rake vigorously to loosen the thatch but not so deep that you damage the turf itself.
Scarifying will also remove moss – it’s easier if the moss is already dead from treatment.
Rake off moss then purchase turf to patch any bare spots or repair areas damaged by kids, dogs or overuse.
Mowing should be avoided where possible over the winter as damp, wet conditions make it difficult. But if the grass is getting long, it is usually safe to mow if the temperature is above 5C and fairly dry.
In winter, alter the trimming length so the grass is about 63.5mm high after cutting. That will help the grass survive waterlogging.
After mowing, make sure there are no clumps of cut grass left on the lawn. Like leaves, these can cause suffocation and disease.
Weeding is another job that can maximise your lawn’s potential in winter. Although most weeds are not actively growing in this period, they can be tackled if you do it properly.
Use a knife or weeding tool to remove any nuisances, such as dandelions, and make sure the root is removed properly to stop regrowth.
Winter is a perfect time to start edging the lawn, as the soil should be soft and easy to cut, as long as it is not frozen. Use a half moon edger to
cut the turf against a flat board or string to ensure it is straight. For curved lawn edges, you may just have to hope you are skilled enough.
Finally, finish off by putting down stone, ceramic, plastic or wooden edging to give it that finishing touch.
Compaction and waterlogging are common problems in winter, especially with the onset of damp weather. To help prevent this, try spiking your lawn. Use a garden fork or lawn aerator to make small holes, ensuring they are fairly dense and evenly spaced every couple of inches, covering the entire surface.
This will aid drainage, allowing air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass and circulate among the roots of the lawn, providing the strength it needs for winter.
For a badly compacted lawn, you may need to use a hollow-tine aerator, which will extract plugs of soil each time it comes out.
Stick these on the compost heap or brush them into the borders then fill the holes with garden sand as that aids the drainage.
You can also hire or buy motorised aerators. And look out for spiked over shoes – a bit like climbing crampons that you use to walk over the lawn while you are working in the garden.
When it comes to fertilising, you have a choice of granular or liquid feeds. Granular takes longer to break down, so may not be as fast acting as liquid, but the impact will last longer.
It is important to choose the right type of fertiliser for the occasion. Autumn and winter versions are high in phosphates and potash, which boost strong root growth rather than encouraging grass leaves.
They are normally also high in iron, which is great for deterring moss growth.
Spring fertilisers will encourage soft leaf growth. As a general rule of thumb, if your lawn is dry, use a liquid feed and a granular if it is wet or rain is forecast.
However, if it does not rain for a few days after application, make sure you water in the granules using a hose so they don’t burn the grass.
With either type, be sure to apply as evenly as possible, following the maker’s instructions.
Finally, if you have any bumps in your lawn, simply cut an H-shape into the soil using a spade.
Fold the turf back from the centre, remove a little soil from underneath, then replace the turf.
Press the edges together and then water thoroughly.
Follow these tips and your lawn should come through the winter stronger than it started, putting it in a great position to come back to life in the spring.