The Chronicle

RAISE A GLASS

- WITH JANE CLARE

HASN’T it been great to finally enjoy some sunshine? I love this time of year when winter starts to be tapped on the shoulder by spring. The other day I optimistic­ally sat in the garden with a glass of wine. I was cold, to be fair, but loved every second of it.

I sipped a couple of rosé wines (with friends I hasten to add) which I’d been saving for my first sunshine foray and to get you in the mood for when spring truly arrives.

Here’s the first, a delicious pink sparkler. De Chanceny Rose Brut Crémant de Loire

(£13.95, yapp.co.uk, 12.5% abv) is, as the name suggests, from the Loire Valley. It is sherberty with red apple, pears and red fruits. It is made in the traditiona­l method; in other words, the same way as champagne.

My other pink was also from the Loire, Château de la Liquière, Les Amandiers AOP Faugères,

(£10.95, The Wine Society, 13%abv). I really enjoyed this wine which had notes of white peach, strawberry and red fruits, with a spike of spice. It had a creaminess too which was lovely to savour. It wasn’t a pink to rush.

What a difference a day makes, as there I was in the sunshine (albeit kitted out with a scarf) and the day before I’d had warming winter beef casserole for supper with a hearty red wine. Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône

(RRP £8, Tesco, Asda, 14% abv) hails from the southern Rhône. My casserole was as simple as it could be; beef, carrots and celery, cooked slowly with a couple of bay leaves and a cheeky spoon of Dijon mustard.

The deep red wine oozed aromas of jammy blackcurra­nts and strawberri­es, with blueberrie­s and bilberries along for the ride. It wasn’t as fruity in the mouth but notes of spice, black fruits, coffee and dark chocolate nodded at the mustard in my casserole as they combined very nicely indeed.

Also in my glass … something a little unusual. Sweetdram

Escubac (£30 at sweetdram.com, or £27,25, thewhiskye­xchange.com and masterofma­lt.com) is a new spirit distilled in Scotland. The Sweetdram brand has been created by Andrew MacLeod Smith and Daniel Fisher.

They created a gin alternativ­e, Escubac. Apparently this spirit style is generation­s old and Andrew and Daniel rediscover­ed recipes in old manuals. (A precursor of whisky was called “usquebaugh” – or “water of life” in Gaelic). The pair felt the recipes were outdated and so began to add their modern touches.

Their Escubac is a juniper-free spirit (hence, not a gin) and the spirit has been infused with raisins, vanilla and saffron. All told, there are 14 botanicals involved in its flavour combo, including caraway, cardamom and nutmeg.

I’ve dipped my nose in a couple of times over a few days as I’ve been undecided about this spirit.

I won’t lie, I miss the juniper influence, but hey Jane (I’ve told myself) the whole point is this is NOT a gin. It has a flavoursom­e kick at the back of the palate, with a zingy citrus note, dried spice and a nudge of orange. I’ve decided I enjoy it as a liqueur, without tonic.

Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes

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