Miami: NICE
JANE HAASE and family discover Miami is their kind of town
MIAMI has the wow factor before you even get there. That was the reaction from friends and family when I told them we were heading to the Florida city for half term.
Long a magnet for the rich and famous, it does have a certain cachet. Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack used to hang out there and it was to their old haunt that we headed for our stay.
Eden Roc hotel, located on prestigious Millionaire’s Row, was THE place to be in Miami’s Fifties heyday. Jayne Mansfield honeymooned there, Harry Belafonte performed in its club and Elizabeth Taylor, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz were all guests.
It still exudes glamour today, which is evident as soon as you step inside its vast grand lobby with a central sunken circular bar above which hangs an elaborate chandelier.
The hotel has recently undergone a $250million makeover which includes some fabulous artwork from Saatchi Art (including funky pictures of David Bowie and Muhammad Ali); a new outdoor restaurant and refurbished rooms.
Our junior suite was decorated in cool, neutral, beachy tones and had floor-to-ceiling sliding windows and a large balcony from where we could see the hotel’s three beautiful pools, palm trees and the Atlantic ocean beyond. Enjoying an early morning coffee there, I spotted paddleboarders and joggers making the most of the empty beach, as tractors cleaned and smoothed the pristine stretch of sand below.
We had two huge queen-size beds, plenty of wardrobe space, a separate bath and shower room, as well as a TV, wi-fi and a Nespresso machine, so plenty of room for me, my husband Ian and children James, 15 and Nina, 13.
But we didn’t spend much time in there. We were too busy making use of the aforementioned pools. Eden Roc also has a luxurious Wellness Spa and offers a schedule of exercise classes too if you are feeling energetic.
After an early morning swim in the pool we popped through the gate that led directly to the beach to lounge around on sunbeds listening to the lapping of the waves. We had the use of two free loungers with our room but an extra two for the kids cost $19 a piece, plus $25 for an umbrella – glamour doesn’t come cheap. Miami is quite expensive and tax and 20% gratuity is added to bills in all bars and restaurants.
On our first night we ate in the relaxed outdoor Malibu Farm restaurant where we enjoyed the balmy Florida night air as well as some delicious grass-fed-beef burgers.
For a more formal dining experience the famous Nobu restaurant is on site.
Like Miami itself, Eden Roc has a relaxed beach vibe, and is the perfect destination for some winter sun with temperatures in the high 20s in February.
The easiest and quickest way to get your bearings is a city tour. We were picked up from our hotel before taking in key sights such as Ocean Drive, with its iconic pastel coloured Art Deco buildings which make it look like a movie set, and the busy commercial district of Downtown Miami with its skyscrapers.
Our guide narrated in both English and Spanish reflecting the huge Cuban population here, many who live in Little Havana where we also stopped off to see old-style Cuban bars and restaurants and watch cigars being handrolled. A big, fat one costs around $12.
A highlight was the boat cruise around Biscayne Bay which takes you past private islands which are home to numerous celebrities.
Wow. They were spectacular, from Italianate villas to Grand Designs style square boxes. We passed Al Capone’s house where he died after being released from Alcatraz, as well as Jennifer Lopez’s mansion, and David Beckham’s pad, complete with huge yacht moored outside.
As we sailed around the beautiful bay, a line of huge ships rising like giant icebergs from the water reminds you that Miami is the cruise capital of the world, handling around 5.6m passengers a year.
It’s easy to get around Miami’s main attractions on foot too. Our hotel was on Mid-Beach so a short trolley bus ride or $12 cab journey took us to South Beach, with its colourful wooden lifeguard towers.
Joggers, dog walkers and rollerbladers were all out in force and fitness fans showed off their muscles on the outside gym equipment at Lummus Park.
But it’s at night that Miami really comes alive and the place to go is Ocean Drive.
I had never seen so many Rolls Royces and Lamborghinis in one spot as they cruised up and down the famous strip. Girls in bikinis rode pillion on huge motorbikes, a drag queen entertained the crowd at one bar and Latin music belted out of the nightclubs.
There are plenty of restaurants to choose from including famous Miami resident, singer Gloria Estefan’s Larios On The Beach serving Cuban specialities, where we enjoyed steak and mojitos.
If you prefer something quieter, nearby Lincoln Road is half pedestrianised and is a hub of shops and eateries, many offering happy hour cocktails.
We also discovered Espanola Way, a small thoroughfare of restaurants where you can dine al fresco under twinkling fairy lights.
Wanting a break from the beach, we took an organised trip to the Everglades National Park to sample a different side of Florida. It’s the nation’s largest subtropical park, over 1.5m acres, and home to alligators.
I was less worried about becoming an afternoon snack for one of the creatures when the ranger told us they can go a year without eating. We spotted a few of the reptiles in the swamp as well as turtles and herons, before our airboat pilot ramped up the speed and we whizzed through the river grass. This was exhilarating and a great way to cool down on a blisteringly hot day.
After our day trip it was back to Ocean Drive and a cocktail in the opulent mansion which was the former home of fashion designer Gianni Versace. It’s now a hotel and restaurant and you can dine around its stunning mosaic-clad pool.
Like Miami, the mansion is unique, a bit over the top – but fabulous!