For decor, it puts other venues into the shade
COSY CLUB
The Riverwalk, Durham
DH1 4SL
Tel: 0191 205 8026 www.cosyclub.co.uk
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Overlooking the river, the latest branch of the bar-restaurant chain doesn’t look much from the outside.
It took a bit of finding – it’s in an elevated spot on the The Riverwalk – and its plain brick exterior makes what we find up a flight of stairs all the more surprising.
Everywhere you look are colours, patterns and things of beauty – oil paintings, bold floral wallpaper; a Union flag shield and lots of red and glittering gold.
Lighting is quite spectacular. There are tasselled lampshades; great circular medieval-style chandeliers and other sparkling crystal affairs that look as if they could have graced the opulent dining room of the Titanic.
Even the wooden tables in between the mismatched chairs have differentpatterned tops. Adding to the quirky look are staff who seem to vary from Peaky Blinders – in flat caps and waistcoats (including the waitresses) – to 1940s housewives in flowery pinnies and headscarves (just waitresses).
It could all be a bit too much but it actually works wonderfully and we were still taking it in when a waiter greeted us with a pick of three menus, including full gluten-free and vegan options.
The service proved just as impressive, with our guide inviting us to choose where we’d like to sit and then introducing us to our waitress, Charlotte, who stuck by us throughout.
DRINKS
Charlotte was a help when my guest was struggling to choose between two beers. She suggested he have a try of each and the tastings – which she fetched straight away - settled the matter: a pint of IPA (£5) proved a good choice.
I picked a dry rose wine (£5.15) before we browsed a menu that did not quite match up to the sense of sophistication and adventure of our surroundings.
STARTERS
My guest settled on a dish of pulled
chicken and chorizo layered on top of a crispy potatoes: a snack-size portion which he enjoyed but could have eaten more of.
I had the Mediterranean mezze plate and all the elements - mini tongue-teasing servings of tzatziki, tomato, one falafel ball, hummus, kale and pickled red cabbage with a few pomegranate seeds – worked beautifully together on the two little triangles of flat bread that accompanied the dish.
MAIN COURSE
I ordered slow-roasted pork belly (£12.50), having previously tried rendered pork belly that melted in the mouth.
This wasn’t the same. But the fat could be easily cut off the meat, which perhaps just a tad overcooked - had good flavour, especially when combined with the rest of the dish – fennel and potato dauphinoise plus green beans, peas and garlic-sautéed spinach with red wine gravy. The thick slice of creamy potato, the subtle edge of garlic in the veg and the depth of flavour to the gravy were delicious. My guest had ordered a classic burger (£9.95), with Charlotte again saving the day when he ordered the vegan option by mistake. He picked extras of bacon and cheese (£2.15) to add to the 6oz beef burger, which came with a touch of salad and a little pail filled with chips.
Again, there were no complaints.
DESSERTS
I love trifle and order it whenever I see it and here the Pimm’s and strawberry trifle (£6.25) sounded right up my street.
It arrived looking pretty enough in a glass with a wedge of cucumber stuck on top of a huge amount of odd-textured cream, which I waded through.
There was a piece of jam-laced sponge on top of the trifle too, which meant there was nothing left for the bottom of the glass, other than more jelly. I do like jelly but this was too much and, worse, I couldn’t actually taste Pimm’s.
My guest’s choice of warm chocolate brownie (£5.95) with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream was, by contrast, bold on flavour and ultimately satisfying.
OVERALL
Our bill came to £63.35: pretty pricey but staff are a real plus here and it’s the sort of welcoming, chilled-out environment where you’re keen to linger.