A taste of the Med
THE search for ‘genuine’ Italian cuisine can be a tough one. There’s definitely a time and a place to seek solace in the comfort of potato skins with barbecue sauce followed by a huge portion of spaghetti bolognese, but sometimes you want something a little closer to the dishes served in the Med.
Angelo’s Ristorante has been serving the good people of Sunderland ‘classic Italian food with a modern twist’ since 2006. Chef Aniello Russo specialises in ‘dishes characteristic of Campania and the Amalfi coast,’ according to their website. So a fairly recent revamp provided the perfect opportunity to go and see whether the food really is heavenly – and authentic.
WHAT’S IT LIKE?
Angelo’s can be found in Sunderland’s picturesque Sunniside area, in a rather grand building. Upon arrival, we were welcomed warmly on a relatively quiet Thursday evening, and quickly shown to a table. There’s a lovely reception area with a well-stocked bar, where others enjoyed a drink while waiting for friends. I imagine most diners would be more than happy to pass a short wait for a table there. The dining area itself was spacious and tastefully decorated in a colour scheme of cream and blue – no red table cloths here.
TO BEGIN
After ordering our drinks (a bottle of house white), we settled down to explore the menu. On the first page was a six-course tasting menu that looked very appealing (king prawn with a pork crackling crust and lamb cutlet just two of the standouts on paper), but we decided to rein it in and go a la carte.
While we were deciding, the waiter came over with two homemade rolls with balsamic and oil to whet the appetite. Picking an antipasti proved a difficult process, as you really do feel spoilt for choice. On offer were Shetland mussels, arancini, chorizo… and not a potato skin in sight. In the end I went for the Burrata e Prosciutto as I spotted it on the tasting menu and thought it would be a good bet. I was not wrong.
The dish was beautifully presented: the burrata cheese sat centre-stage, while the pear and prosciutto rested either side with a light crisp bread on top. The burrata was perfect, its slightly chewy exterior giving way to soft, creamy cheese. It blended perfectly with the other components of the dish, the salty meat deliciously sharpening the honeyed pear.
I thought I couldn’t have picked a better start to the meal, but my dining companion disagreed: his Funghi al Dragoncello (mushrooms on toast with tarragon cream) was a triumph in simplicity. The delicate dish didn’t overpower with its flavours.
THE MAIN EVENT
With standards set deliciously high, it was on to the mains. I picked Strozzapreti alla Scoglio: seafood pasta. The pasta itself was wonderful; the short, twisted ribbons provided the perfect vehicle for the fish and absorbed the garlicky, salty juices beautifully.
The mussels and prawns were fresh and tasty, and the tomatoes provided fruity bursts.
My friend went for one of the specials, pork fillet wrapped in Parma ham. It was served with broccoli, carrot puree, sauce and a dash of apple.
It was a ‘rich but delicious’ main, the pork beautifully cooked and the apple a perfect accompaniment to the richness of the meat and sauce.
The veg was tasty and it felt every inch a dish worthy of the special board.
SOMETHING SWEET?
Our stomachs were fit to burst – but in the interests of research, we ploughed on to dessert.
My friend went for the lemon meringue cheesecake, which he described as a fun twist on a classic – keeping very much in theme with the rest of the menu. The light meringue topped the indulgent lemony cheesecake, and was a light, tasty palette cleanser after the richness of the meal.
Straying from typical Italian food, I picked the creme brûlée, which came with a small plum cake. I’d eaten so much I could have done without the cake, which was a tasty but fairly plain sponge, and the creme brûlée could have stood by itself even if I wasn’t so full. Its sugar crust gave way perfectly to the silky custard.
HOW WAS THE SERVICE AND VALUE FOR MONEY?
The service was excellent, with the friendly staff attentive but far from pushy. They anticipated our needs, for example bringing out a bowl for my mussel shells. It’s a place that clearly has its regulars and you can see why – the food is absolutely delicious and, from my limited knowledge at least, does an excellent job of serving up authentic Italian food. Three courses and a bottle of wine came to just over £70, which was by no means cheap but for the quality was reasonable.
For me, Angelo’s had it all – it’s a little slice of the Amalfi coast in Sunderland. We’ll certainly be back for the tasting menu.