THE COAST IS CLEAR...
IT’S DESCRIBED AS BRITAIN’S ONLY DESERT BUT THERE’S BEAUTY AMID THE BLEAKNESS, SAYS TOM BRYANT ON A PRE-PANDEMIC BREAK IN KENT
WALKING along the coast in Dungeness, the desolate landscape could be a setting for a bleak, post-apocalyptic film. A sign of the times, perhaps.
Yet, in the shadow of a nuclear power station, this strangely beautiful spit of land jutting out into the English Channel has inspired artists and musicians for decades.
Its barren landscape featured on the cover of Pink Floyd’s album A Collection of Great Dance Songs, and former residents include film director Derek Jarman.
It’s no surprise that one million tourists each year visit this strange three-mile stretch of land – an area so stark it’s known as Britain’s only desert.
But then it boasts one of the largest shingle beaches in Europe and is a haven for wildlife watchers and nature fans, with more than 600 species of plants.
While it’s just a 10-minute drive from our base at Parkdean Resorts’ Romney Sands Holiday Park, the best way to get there is by train.
Known as Kent’s Mainline in Miniature, the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway boasts charming one-third size steam locomotives. Covering 13.5 miles of track from the Cinque Port town of Hythe, terminating in Dungeness, there are four stations along the way, including one at the holiday park to pick us up.
With two young children in tow, it was a magical way to travel, not least with the steam pouring into the sky from the train, which certainly added to the spooky Dungeness atmosphere.
Starting at Hythe and travelling to the end of the track takes around an hour – just enough time to build up an appetite.
We stopped at the Pilot Inn, which dates back to 1633 and is steeped in smuggling history. It’s reportedly made from the wrecked timber of the ship Alfresia, a Spanish vessel that was lured aground and its cargo of brandy and gold was stolen.
Naturally, the pub specialises in fish and we settled for two large cod and chips (£15 each).
There was a good value kids’ menu, too, featuring all the usuals such as spag bol, and sausage and chips, and an extensive dessert menu to keep all ages happy.
Beers were tasty, too, with a selection of warming, local ales, including a stonking Shepherd Neame Master Brew.
The pub sits in the shadow of the impressive Dungeness Lighthouse, a Grade II listed building that was opened in 1904 by the then Prince of Wales, and later George V.
Its light, which flashed every 10 seconds and could be seen for 18 miles, provided much-needed assistance to sailors trying to navigate the perilous waters of the English Channel.
Eventually decommissioned in 1960, it now serves as a tourist attraction where, on a clear day, you can enjoy views across Romney Marsh.
It’s worth the admission (£5 for an adult and £4 for kids) for the views inside, with a series of stunning slate mezzanine floors supported by steel beams and wrought-iron banisters.
With our cheeks thoroughly windswept and somewhat weary after a day’s sightseeing, we hopped on to the train for the short trip back to the holiday park.
There, the four of us were staying in a rather luxurious Willerby Rio Gold, a holiday home which was spacious and had everything from a large TV to a USB charging point.
Stick the heating on and the whole caravan warmed up in minutes – a very welcome respite after a breezy day by the coast.
Facilities at the park ticked every box for a young family, in my case girls aged seven and 10.
The indoor pool was great with “water walking” – running on the top of the water inside a massive blow-up ball – a highlight.
I was happy to watch from the sidelines, although I was roped into playing crazy golf, where the equipment was free to hire, as well as the obligatory hours (and cash) spent in the amusement arcade.
For the adults, there was a very lively bingo scene (we won £45!) and a great bar. Food at the Boathouse Restaurant was reasonably priced with mains of traditional pub grub around a tenner each. Staff were everywhere, always with a big smile on their faces, and willing to help too, not least when offering suggestions of where to visit in the area.
The beaches, of course, came highly recommended – and directly opposite the park was a cracker with acres of beautiful sand, perfect for watching the world go slowly by.
A short drive away is Camber Sands, an equally exquisite beach where once you’ve parked your car, you have to climb over stunning sand dunes to access the seafront.
If you have time, take a trip to Rye. It’s one of the best-preserved medieval towns in England where you can get lost in a labyrinth of cobbled streets and marvel at the crooked, halftimbered houses.
There, we stumbled upon a charming hotel and café called
Whitehouse Rye where we had “fancy”’ bacon rolls (with chilli jam, fried egg and crispy fried onions), as well as cinnamon French toast.
It certainly sustained us for an afternoon’s sightseeing visiting Rye Castle’s 1249 Ypres Tower and the 12th-century St Mary’s Church, before hauling our tired limbs back to the holiday park where our cosy caravan awaited us.
Coronavirus restrictions mean Parkdean sites are currently closed – but they will be back in action as soon as they can.