An historic jewel in the North East’s crown
In the latest in our Passionate People, Passionate Places series, Jane Hall looks at why Tynemouth can be held up as a jewel in the North East’s coastal crown
THERE’S a wall painting at the National Trust’s Wallington Hall depicting the Viking hordes pouring on to the beach at Tynemouth’s King Edward’s Bay as terrified locals flee for their lives.
It’s one of eight massive murals capturing 2,000 years of Northumberland history created by the Pre-Raphaelite artist, William Bell Scott, for Wallington’s central hall.
In the foreground, the women can be seen struggling to carry their children and baskets of possessions up the steep cliff as they flee from the invading Danes. In the background, the bulk of Tynemouth Priory stands sentinel on its headland just above a steely grey North Sea.
The painting illustrates a true event from 800 AD when the ferocious Norsemen sacked not just Tynemouth, but the monasteries at nearby Jarrow and Wearmouth too.
It’s a vivid and, some may say, somewhat overemotional tableau. But what also strikes you as you take in the determined faces of the women labouring up the cliff path is that the scene could have been painted now.
Before the lockdown, any halfdecent day would see King Edward’s Bay thronged with people.
It would have been day-trippers rather than ferocious Norsemen (although there are probably a few of those around still) who invaded this sandy horseshoeshaped beach enclosed by cliffs and grassy banks.
The climb back up to the road by the Gibraltar Rock pub is no less stressful these days than the one portrayed in Bell Scott’s work. Bottom to top is 130 steps, no mean feat when you have kids, buggies and beach kit to lug up the steep slope.
But despite the challenges, King Edward’s Bay, which is still overlooked by the ruins of Tynemouth Priory (not the one the Vikings raided but a later Norman one that was to eventually be laid waste by forces closer to home: namely King Henry VIII), shows no signs of waning in popularity.
And it’s no wonder. Whatever the season or the weather, Tynemouth is a jewel in the North East crown.
Just eight miles as the crow flies from the centre of Newcastle, Tynemouth is a breath of fresh air in more ways than one.
It offers everything you could want from a trip to the coast: beautiful sandy beaches; oodles of history and heritage; a plethora of first-class pubs and restaurants; award-winning fish and chips; family attractions; an acclaimed weekend market; events aplenty; cycling and walking routes; picturesque buildings; and a thriving village centre.
The latter is part of its charm. Tynemouth may now be part of a bigger coastal conurbation stretching from the mouth of the River Tyne to Whitley Bay and beyond. But at its heart, Tyne
mouth with its Georgian and Victorian terraces and wide main street packed with restaurants, pubs, cafes and quirky independent boutiques, that leads up to the imposing ruins of the castle and priory, is still very much a village.
It’s unseasonably quiet at the minute. Like everywhere else, Tynemouth is in lockdown. But once the coronavirus restrictions are lifted, you can bet the crowds will return.
Yet popular as Tynemouth is, it is never so crowded that you feel overwhelmed.
That’s because there’s so much for people to do – and not just of the bucket and spade variety, although you won’t be disappointed if sand, sea and surf is your thing.
Both King Edward’s Bay and the golden stretch of Longsands are Blue Flag beaches. Longsands – which takes the full force of the North Sea – has become something of a surfing hub. In fact, Tynemouth has produced some of the UK’s best-known surfers, including four-times British champion Gabe Davies.
Away from the water, there’s Tynemouth Park on Grand Parade, with its boating lake, pirate-themed maze, Lost World crazy golf, and Jungle Wipeout giant inflatables, bringing a touch of typical British seaside entertainment and humour.
Nearby is Tynemouth Aquarium, formerly known as Blue Reef but now painted a vivid shade of sunny seaside yellow.
Tynemouth Priory and Castle must rank as one of the most romantic ruins anywhere. Once one of the largest fortified areas in England, it was for centuries an important coastal defence, and played a vital part in both the First and Second World Wars when a gun battery was built into the cliffs to guard the mouth of the Tyne.
It normally hosts the Tynemouth Food Festival every May and the Mouth of Tyne Festival in
July – we will hoping for their return next year, along with the weekend market at Tynemouth’s restored Victorian Metro Station.
Then it’s just a short walk into the village itself for award-winning fish and chips from wellknown North East chef Simon Walsh’s Longsands Fish Kitchen, delicious homemade cakes and coffee from the quirky Dil and the Bear Cafe, or alfresco seafood from Riley’s Fish Shack on King Edward’s Bay, named in numerous polls as one of the top places to eat along the UK’s coast.
And there we are again, back at King Edward’s Bay.
It’s all quiet down on the beach at the moment, save for the odd local enjoying an early morning swim or practising yoga as part of their allotted anti-coronavirus exercise regime.
But when the lockdown is finally lifted we will all be able to rediscover why Tynemouth is a place that so many people are passionate about.