NOW THAT’S A JOR DROPPER
JAMES CAVEN SAYS ONCE THE WORLD REOPENS TO TRAVELLERS, YOU SHOULD HEAD FOR THE EXTRAORDINARY AND DISCOVER A DESERT DELIGHT
THERE is a reason why Petra was voted one of the ‘New Seven Wonders of the World’. In this ancient city, half-hidden in the dustblown landscape of Jordan’s Shara mountains, I am one of the many visitors left in awe by its mysterious architectural treasures.
Dwellings carved into red sandstone tower above me as I weave my way from the Siq, down to the Treasury, its defining monument. Film fans will recognise it from Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade, as it’s where Indy (played by Harrison Ford) hunts for the Holy Grail.
Standing at nearly 40ft high and intricately decorated with figures and pillars, it was designed to impress. Two thousand years on, the effect is undiminished.
Built by the Nabataeans, carved deep into the rockface and concealed by the high walls of the valley, the ‘lost city’ has been protected from the elements and is incredibly well preserved.
Its vast buildings, including a theatre, royal tombs and great temple, all give an insight into an ancient way of life in the Middle East.
After my tour, I’m booked in to make my own Jordanian lunch at the Petra Kitchen cooking class.
I learn how to make lentil soup, maqluba – an ‘upside down’ dish of rice, meat and vegetables – and tabbouleh and fattoush salads, using all fresh ingredients.
There are no freezers in this kitchen. Everything is purchased daily from the local markets, as it has been for thousands of years.
Many tourists might like to spend a couple of days exploring Petra, and take in The Monastery, the city’s most imposing tomb.
This requires an hour’s climb from the valley floor, so as my time is limited I head straight into the wilds of the Wadi Rum desert, a two-hour drive away on the western edge of the Arabian desert.
With its sweeping red sand dunes, mountains and giant granite rocks, the Valley of the Moon, is like nowhere else on Earth.
Its dramatic other-worldly landscape has made it a popular movie location, with Lawrence of Arabia, the recent Aladdin, The Martian and Rogue One: A Star Wars Story all filmed here.
I stay in the Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp, which looks like a space camp nestled into the huge sandstone rock. There’s a mixture of fully furnished tents and pods, which have transparent roofs so you can gaze at the stars or the morning sky. Sitting by a camp fire that evening, I sip Bedouin tea, entranced by the complete stillness of the desert and the clear sky full of stars. I wake up early in time to see the sun slowly rise, before jumping in a Jeep to explore the desert landmarks.
We stop off at Lawrence’s Spring, a towering rock named in honour of the British archaeologist and army officer’s description of it in his book, Seven Pillars of Wisdom.
I clamber up and stand on the top to take in the sweeping views of the rippling desert below.
At Khazali Canyon, our Bedouin guide points out ancient Nabatean inscriptions on the 330ft long, deep, narrow crack, which date back about 2,000 years.
I then walk across the Burdah Rock Bridge, the largest of Rum’s three arches, perched precariously about 250ft above the surrounding rock, before running up sand dunes and stopping off in a Bedouin tent for tea.
For one final desert thrill, I hop on a camel and trek across the sand.
As the sun beats down, I feel like I’ve stepped back in time to an age of explorers working their way across the sands for the first time.
For my next leg of the trip, I head south to the busy port of Aqaba.
The city, said to be an inspiration for Aladdin, lies across the sun-kissed Red Sea from Egypt and Israel. Saudi Arabia is just a few miles down the road.
Here, there are endless restaurants to tuck into falafel and shawarma wraps, as well as cafés serving fresh coffee boiled using hot sand. I stop for lunch at a beach bar at Ayla Oasis, a sparkling new 10-mile waterfront development along the Red Sea.
Then I spend the afternoon soaking up the sun with the rest of the tourists before jumping in the sea for a refreshing dip.
Dinner is at Captain’s Restaurant, where proceedings begin with cold mezze dishes of hummus, baba ghanoush and salad before huge platters of lamb kofta, beef and roasted vegetables arrive.
Afterwards, I venture out to the night market where I engage in some friendly haggling with the traders selling all manner of exotic delights.
There are huge bags of tea and colourful spices piled up into peaks; shelves creak under stacks of Jordanian rugs, jars of olives and handmade crafts.
Staying at the award-winning Movenpick Tala Bay on the peaceful southern shores of the Red Sea, I make the most of its private beach swimming pools, spa and sea views.
Feeling rested, I then head out on a boat tour with Go Aqaba.
These waters are famous around the world for what lies beneath and I relish jumping straight in to snorkel in this real-life aquarium teeming with fish.
A lunch of fresh fish sizzled on the barbecue up on deck, served with flatbread, hummus and salads tastes wonderful as we cruise along in the sunshine.
It’s a fitting end to my time in Jordan, a treasure trove of ancient wonders, inspiring desert landscapes and colourful coastline.