RAISE A GLASS

I HAVE a rediscovered passion for a wine region, and that region is Alsace.

I joined a Zoom call with master of wine Anne Krebiehl and Jean-Frédéric Hugel, the 13th generation of wine producers Hugel in Alsace. The theme was Alsace: A unique history forged by adversity. It was a fascinating wine Zoom – and also very moving.

Alsace was hit particularly hard in the early days of coronavirus and it was one of the worst affected regions in France. But for the people of Alsace, adversity is nothing new.

Its location between France and Germany has brought turbulent times. In the late 1890s through to 1945, the region was French, then German, then French, then German, and finally French again.

Cultures may have changed, but wine has been the one constant.

The region is a strip of valley with the Rhine to the east and the Vosges mountains to the west. The mountains offer protection to the vineyards. It is a dry and sunny area but still comparatively cool because of the latitude.

Jean-Frédéric explained that at the end of World

War One, Alsace wine producers decided that

their future lay in quality grapes.

There was post-war devastation; the harvests had been bad; and the Germans had encouraged hybrid grape varieties which delivered cheap, poor wines.

This was the time for change, and the future was the noble grape varieties of Alsace: riesling, pinot gris, muscat, and gewürztraminer. These still deliver the delicious wines of the region.

It is the only French wine region which has a huge reputation for riesling.

I asked Jean-Frédéric for a wine recommendation for you, by way of an introduction to Alsace. He suggested Gentil Hugel (available widely, including Tanners Wines, £13.50, left). Jean-Frédéric says: “It has the finesse of riesling, the power of

pinot gris, the charming fruity expression of gewurztraminer and muscat and the freshness of sylvaner and pinot blanc. Blending those grapes allows for a more diplomatic entry point to Alsace.”

Hugel makes The Society’s Vin d’Alsace 2018 (£9.95) exclusively for online merchants The Wine Society. It is also a blend and is an aromatic crisp, dry white wine.

During the tasting I sipped a wine from one of the 51 grand cru in Alsace, Domaine Kirrenbourg Grand Cru Schlossberg Riesling

2016 (RRP £34.50, raeburnfinewines.com). This wine was silky and luxurious and yet still zesty, with lime and good acidity. For a special day, with a special person, try

Domaine Schlumberger Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Saering (£24.95, oxfordwine.co.uk, below). It sings of citrus, dashing acidity and floral notes that keep on giving.

I’m now in love with Alsace.

■ Also in my glass … you might want to open a bottle of fizz over the Bank Holiday weekend. TV favourite Graham Norton’s Own Prosecco is down from £11 to £9 from August 26 to September 15 at Sainsbury. I poured some of Norton’s bubbles into a glass and was very happy to share this pear-popping wine with friends. Have fun!

■ Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.