The Chronicle

Greek odyssey

FROM ANCIENT GREECE TO MODERN-DAY LIFE, ISLAND-HOPPING GIVES A FLAVOUR OF WHAT’S ON OFFER IN THE AEGEAN SEA, SAYS AINE FOX

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AS THE Aegean sea glistens and shimmers in the sunshine, the view becomes more breathtaki­ng with every narrow turn the tour bus makes, high up into the hills of Santorini.

Arriving by cruise ship, the whitewashe­d houses dotted along the cliff in the distance had resembled a snow-capped mountain.

But the 30°C heat quickly reminded me I am in Greece, on an island-hopping adventure.

Our tour guide Thea tells us cruising the Greek islands is like an appetiser, giving us a taste of what is on offer, each with a different flavour.

From the chic streets of party island Mykonos, to the stunning views of the quieter Patmos, and the historical ruins of Crete – I am already planning my return for a longer stay. The main course, if you will.

Our three-night all-inclusive sailing with Celestyal Cruises sees us setting off early from Athens for a jam-packed exploratio­n of the Aegean Sea, taking in some of Greece’s most beautiful islands.

It’s possible to do a DIY version by taking ferries between islands of course, but an organised cruise takes the pressure off, with an itinerary in place, accommodat­ion taken care of and no need to think about traipsing around the streets with luggage in tow.

Celestyal gives passengers the opportunit­y to enjoy an “experience that invites you to indulge in our Hellenic heritage”.

While our sailing is short – longer trips are available – it involves the wonders of both ancient and modern Greece.

A stop off at the Turkish port of Kusadasi sees us step back in time to the ruins of Ephesus, dating to around the 10th century BC.

Standing in the middle of an amphitheat­re with the hot sun beating down, you can’t help but imagine the gladiators striding forward as the crowd of thousands packed into the stone seats cheers them on.

A day later, in Heraklion on the island of Crete, we visit the ancient Knossos Temple where we learn of the origins of the famous Minotaur, which according to Greek legend, roamed the tunnels under the sprawling palace.

As fascinatin­g as ancient Greece is, it’s the modern-day island experience I’m most keen to sample.

Our stroll through the streets of Mykonos brings to life the pictureper­fect postcard image I had in my head.

The paved streets are spotless, the whitewashe­d houses adorned with vibrant blue rooftops and doors, while fuchsia-coloured bougainvil­laea drape over laneways and outdoor stairwells, making for the most beautiful scene against a clear blue sky.

Coloured cushions are placed on whitewashe­d seats and benches, which jut out from the bars and shops, in an effortless­ly stylish version of cafe culture.

Cat lovers are in for a treat as moggies – lots of gingers – laze in the evening heat, stretching themselves along walls or in shop doorways.

Their relaxed demeanours are a reflection of the slow pace of life and holidaymak­ers’ mood around them.

Dining outdoors by the waterside is already pretty atmospheri­c, but when the restaurant lights flicker just as the baked aubergine in a delicious tomato sauce is being served, things take a more magical turn.

A temporary blackout sees half the eateries nearby suddenly plunged into darkness but for candles on the table and the twinkling lights of the villas on the other side of the harbour.

Our 10pm departure time to the ship means we don’t quite get to sample the party reputation Mykonos (where celebritie­s including Leonardo DiCaprio and Beyoncé are said to have holidayed) is famed for. But that leaves all the more reason to return.

Sleeping on the ship also makes for a more economical holiday, with our tour guides telling us overnight stays in the likes of Mykonos and Santorini are on the pricier side.

There is certainly something to be said for drawing back the curtains to a new scene every morning.

Adventurin­g means early starts, with 6am breakfasts and 7am departures, but it’s worth it to see as much as possible, and there is always time for a nap back on the boat between stops if needed.

Otherwise, there is plenty to keep guests entertaine­d on our ship, Celestyal Olympia.

Whether that’s a dip in the pool on deck nine, a cocktail while watching the sunset from the Horizons bar on deck 12, or a treatment at the beauty centre on deck five.

The all-inclusive dining package aims to give guests a selection of

internatio­nal cuisine, blended with Greek gastronomy.

Among the delicacies we enjoy are Greek salad (of course), falafel souvlaki, and traditiona­l baklava for dessert.

Off the ship, a must-have is bougatsa – a Greek custard pie with filo pastry, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar.

As we sit outside a cafe in Crete, with locals emerging from a nearby church to get a morning coffee, we feel we really must try the savoury cheese-filled version as well, and we’re not disappoint­ed.

No Greek Odyssey would be complete without some olives, cheese and wine. At the Venetsa-nos winery in Santorini, they offer all of the above, and even throw in an epic view for less than €30/£25.60.

Sipping the third offering, a sweet dessert wine, we gaze from our clifftop spot out over the Aegean Sea, where the ship sits awaiting our return.

Back on-board, the night can be rounded off with one of the entertainm­ent shows, featuring music and acrobatics, or with a nightcap in one of the bars, as guests mull over the sights and sounds of that day, and the new adventure tomorrow will bring.

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 ?? ?? Guests can enjoy a drink on deck between excursions
Guests can enjoy a drink on deck between excursions
 ?? ?? Celestyal Olympia on approach to Mykonos Island
Celestyal Olympia on approach to Mykonos Island
 ?? ?? Aine in Santorini
Aine in Santorini
 ?? ?? Dining in the Aegean restaurant on Celestyal Olympia
Dining in the Aegean restaurant on Celestyal Olympia
 ?? ?? The Venetsanos winery in Santorini offers stunning views
The Venetsanos winery in Santorini offers stunning views
 ?? ?? The Horizons Bar on Celestyal Olympia
The Horizons Bar on Celestyal Olympia
 ?? ?? Knossos Palace on Crete
Knossos Palace on Crete

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