Travelling with strong winds

Robin is exploring in Fuerteventura, the Canary Islands’ underrated gem

There are other resorts, too, such as Caleta de Fuste, with its restaurants and fancy shops, which are aimed at a more well-heeled crowd.

Right in the deep south, Morro Jable is a relaxed resort popular with Germans and Central Europeans. I like it there but if you’re not used to naturism, beware, as clothing-optional bathing is often the norm in this part of Fuerteventura!

Inland, life shifts down a few gears on an island that, tourism aside, has a very low-key economy. Many visitors don’t even know about this beguiling mountainous hinterland, but even during this week I managed trips to Antigua, La Oliva and Betancuria.

Betancuria is the prettiest and the grandest of the villages, its characterful stone houses and whitewashed churches harking back to its glory days, when it was the island’s capital until 1834. The Artisans Museum and the Betancuria Archaeological Museum tell the intriguing story of a town that also offers a tantalising window into the history of the whole island. The hearty local specialty inland is goat – baked kid is on the menu at cosy Casa Santa Maria in Betancuria.

Not being a huge fan of goat, I prefer Fuerteventura’s world class seafood. The restaurants of Corralejo are OK (especially the wee Cofradia, run by the local fishermen’s co-operative), but I much prefer nipping across to the west coast where El Cotillo awaits. Very much a working fishing port, this rugged rock-strewn gem boasts a sprinkling of superb seafood restaurants, Frenchowned La Vaca Azul is the place to head, with boat-fresh local fish such as cherne or vieja.

My favourite way of getting out to El Cotillo from Corralejo is walking. It’s a hefty hike of at least four hours, but a life-affirming one as you eke through the barren volcanic landscape with the roaring Atlantic surf for constant company and the neighbouring island of Lanzarote off in the distance. The chances are you won’t even see any other hikers. The beaches on the final stretch into El Cotillo are some of the best anywhere in Macaronesia.

The hiking doesn’t end there. Tenerife and La Palma may be more renowned