Nothing piecemeal about Michael’s peasemeal milling

The man who stone grinds the Westfield harvest is Michael Shaw, a producer entirely in a class of his own as arguably the only traditional peasemeal miller in the world.

A former sheep shearer from New Zealand, he learned the dying art from a family acquaintance who ran Golspie Mill in Sutherland. And, after taking over the mill in 2001, he spotted a niche market for the product, which he grinds in one of Scotland’s few remaining water-powered mills.

Once a staple that had been used since Roman times, peasemeal was eaten widely during the Second World War but declined in popularity in the 1970s. However, interest in its use has been on the rise recently thanks to its reputation as a healthy, nutritious and versatile food – and an element of nostalgia.

Made from yellow field peas, which are roasted and then milled – through a laborious process and three sets of stones – to produce a fine yellow flour, it was traditionally used for making peasemeal brose.

Although some customers are from the older generation who remember the brose from their youth, among today’s newest fans are vegetarians and vegans who appreciate its high-protein content. Others include innovative chefs using traditional food in modern, experimental ways – as a crispy coating for fish or chicken or served with a hot ham stock. It’s also the basis for a range of pates from Fife business Fallaine Foods .

“I could see it was a wee niche product that the mill could be unique for,” said Michael. “Now, there’s a steady stream of demand that has grown in the past few years. We’ve been bigged up by a few good chefs.”

The mill, which supplies peasemeal to customers Scotland-wide, also produces oatmeal, rye flour and organic wholemeal flour, which is used in its range of Rustic Bites shortbreads.

Michael Shaw runs Golspie Mill in Sutherland