Peaceful, private and redefining paradise

With crystal white sands and sheltered lagoons, the Maldives are the perfect example of a relaxing resort holiday, as Robin discovers

F lying back for the first time in 10 years, it’s clear the Maldives have changed. A giant new Chinese-built bridge now connects the capital to the airport, the guy sitting next to me is staying in a local guest house (unimaginable back then), and I’m about to discover these remote islands are now home to resorts up there with anywhere in the world.

The Maldives are that most unlikely of countries, a pancake-flat archipelago that stretches out for more than 800km, home to less than half a million people. The lowest-lying country on Earth has hit the headlines for its vociferous protestations on climate change, and that’s no surprise as it’s very much in the line of fire as ocean levels rise.

That threat has mushroomed greatly since my last visit and many Maldivians I met were keen to talk about the issues and what people around the world can do to help. In general, the country feels like it has opened up a lot, thanks in no small measure to tourists now being able to visit and stay on many of the “local islands”. Visitors were never encouraged to visit these before in this devout Islamic country, but now a sprinkling sport guesthouses and bikini beaches where tourists won’t offend the inhabitants by wearing swimwear.

You should cover up away from the beach, and alcohol is still banned outside the resort islands.

Alcohol is also prohibited on the island that houses the capital of Male. It’s a refreshing change to relax in buzzing cafes where the locals chat on late into the night, fuelled by tea and coffee. Later, as the cafes close, I don’t feel the same tension you sometimes get back home at close.

Male is also home to a sprinkling of mosques you can sometimes visit if you ask politely and are dressed appropriately. It’s a rewarding city for just wandering around taking in the exotic sights, sounds and smells.

Few arrivals from abroad visit Male, as the real prize of coming to the Maldives are those famous sand-kissed islands. They are the stuff of glossy brochures and the reality is even better with starched white sands, gently swaying palms and aquarium clear waters where you can enjoy a snorkel-style experience without even dipping your face in the water. It’s also worth noting malaria is not an issue so you don’t have to lather yourself in horrible chemicals – check before you visit as it could change.

My two islands of choice both lay to the north of Male, in the remote Lhaviyani Atoll. It takes many hours in a boat to get here so I hopped on a seaplane for a speedy 40-minute trip that was a bonus sightseeing flight as we swooped low over the reefs.